My '76 180J has rubber bushings on the alternator mount and adjustment arm. They are rotted and need replacement but the best I could find is $215 ea X4 = $860. Does anyone know of a more economical fix? Later models and generator conversions do not use rubber bushings.

If later models use the same parts but got rid of the bushings, couldn't you just adopt that approach? Especially if Cessna ended up doing it later on anyway, that sounds like a simple logbook sign off.

I made delrin bushings for mine, ran into the same issue.

Tim

All you need to update is the left rear motor mount from Continental, available through Aviall. Check pricing. I don’t think Continental is a outrageous as Cessna yet.

Pinecone wrote:All you need to update is the left rear motor mount from Continental, available through Aviall. Check pricing. I don’t think Continental is a outrageous as Cessna yet.

This is true but it can be a big job. The earlier Cessna alternator mount is steel and goes in between a shorter engine mount leg and the engine case.

The later integrated engine mount/alternator mount is all aluminum and somewhat bulkier. There may be problems routing the throttle cable (ask me how I know!) if you install this later mount.


I do agree the later mount is the the way to go if you can make it happen, they seem to work much better in my experience.

I just went through this on my PPonk. When I built my Ponk, I stuck with the stock (early) mount that came off my 470. FWIW... the later mount is still expensive. Its also a pain in the ass to swap out. Sam is also right about the throttle cable. Just stick with the mount you have.

FWIW... I do have a set of low time serviceable bushings that I would sell if you do need them. I also have a take off later style alt bracket as well.

The home made delrin bushings sound like a good solution also. What does your IA say about it?

Worn rubber bushings will cause belts to be thrown. First hand experience! My speculation is that the delrin will last a long time, be more rigid like the new solid mounts, and be the cheapest and easiest repair.

Bigrenna wrote:I also have a take off later style alt bracket as well.

Bigrenna - I would be interested in the mount.

Replacing the bracket may be the thing to do next time the engine is off, maybe. For now I’m thinking “owner produced parts” (steel bushings). My IA is reasonable. Delrin sounds interesting though. I’ll run it by him. Thanks.

Web off the SuperCub site managed to find some new ones for me recently. The were about 1/3 of the price stated in the OP.

Still bloody outrageous for what they are. (Not Web's doing and I thank him for his troubles)

Also due to throttle cable routing, I reused the steel alternator mount but only after stripping paint and magnetic-particle inspecting. After 4000+ hours it evidenced one crack and a substandard weld, which were both repaired.

If you have a chance can you post a picture of the throttle cable routing with the steel mount? I’m changing to that style from the old InterAv system and am looking for a good clean route, and attachment.

Working on installing the new motor with the new style motor mount/alternator mount. Unfortunately my recently rebuilt, but older style, alternator is not a good fit. Can anybody tell me what alternator P/N you used?
We also used the Sea Planes West motor mount and torqued the four firewall bolts to the specified 190 inch pounds but man does that not seem tight enough. Anybody have any experience with these bolts at those specs?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Chris

I think the bottom of the list will fit your plane if you are 12 volt. My 180K has the new style mount bracket and I have a 28 volt Ford. Also, if the previous post is still looking for how the throttle cable runs, here is a picture that is not the best but.....

Thanks for the info and the photo!

flyingzebra wrote:Working on installing the new motor with the new style motor mount/alternator mount. Unfortunately my recently rebuilt, but older style, alternator is not a good fit. Can anybody tell me what alternator P/N you used?
We also used the Sea Planes West motor mount and torqued the four firewall bolts to the specified 190 inch pounds but man does that not seem tight enough. Anybody have any experience with these bolts at those specs?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Chris

Had this same concern when torqued to 190 inch lbs on my 470 install recently on my 182. It’s the spec but seemed under torqued. The book says, it’s what we does….

I spent a month sorting out alternator. Ended up using the new style single piece engine/alternator mount.

I have a brand new early style mount available if someone is looking.

We had to use automotive rubber bushings on the adjustment bracket to replace the ridiculous priced Lord bushings which we had issue just finding stock.

Rerouting the throttle cable is definitely a PITA. Does anybody have photos of where the throttle cable comes through the firewall and bends down to go around the alternator. Thanks!
Chris

Was thinking about using the one-piece mount on my '58. What is the story on the throttle cable problem? I currently have the two-piece (rubber bushing steel+aluminum leg) mount and the throttle cable has no issue going over the top of the alternator belt tensioning arm.

Referencing the post I made 5 years ago about throttle cable routing, this was specifically on a 812E and wanting to use the proper throttle control by airframe S/N.

Originally there is a little weldment adjacent to the alternator mount that interfaces with the clamping ferrule built into the throttle cable. When switching to the cast aluminum alternator mount the weldment would no longer fit and we were forced to get creative about clamping the throttle cable securely, one really doesn't want their throttle cable moving about...

C180_guy wrote:Was thinking about using the one-piece mount on my '58. What is the story on the throttle cable problem? I currently have the two-piece (rubber bushing steel+aluminum leg) mount and the throttle cable has no issue going over the top of the alternator belt tensioning arm.

As far as there being a similar routing problem with a '58 I don't know, firewall penetration location and/or cable length might be different enough to get away with it.

Any photos of the installation? The 1979 service bulletin has you move the firewall throttle control penetration up higher. I don't want to do that. Just looking at the steel vs aluminum mount, it appears that axis where the alternator bolt goes is identical, so not sure why there would be a throttle control interference up at the adjusting arm.