Windshield is trimmed/drilled/sanded and all masked for silicone but not yet sealed in. I trimmed it one more time after the last post and am really glad I did. Drilling the holes in the side and top was a little nervy. Got acrylic bits and tried to do it right but still not fun on an expensive windshield. Waiting to seal it up until I finish fitting the front doors... just in case.



Installed Elevator Gap seals.



(invisible)

I fly a plane that originally had the windshield seated in felt but someone decided to bed it in silicone. The squeaking never stops while taxiing or in turbulence. Annoying. Anyone else find this?

Cuffed wrote:I fly a plane that originally had the windshield seated in felt but someone decided to bed it in silicone. The squeaking never stops while taxiing or in turbulence. Annoying. Anyone else find this?

On a 180?
Do you have a v-brace?
The windshield on my old C170 used to squeak,
the windshield in my 180 (with v brace) never seems to.

The original Maule drawing uses no seal of any kind anywhere on the windshield. They rest the front lip of it on the fiberglass glareshield then put "fabric tape" over the seam. That's duck tape in Georgia talk, which after a few years is a powdery mess with no waterproof capability. Then they bolt on the retaining strip. I will be using silicone to keep water out of that interface, not so much to seat the windshield in.

My 180 windshield squeaked and groaned like crazy with no v brace. I thought even the felt seals had a line of sealant on the outside to keep the felt from absorbing water?

This Maule will live outside in Alaska half the year so water intrusion is real.

Hey Asa - this project is looking amazing. Appreciate you taking the time and effort to bring us along.

Question: you mentioned earlier that you invested in some tools for your wiring. What would you say were the best bang for the buck investments you made in that area? I have a couple of projects coming up that I am dreading, but having some nice, shiny tools might help make me a convert to the fun that can be had rewiring an airplane.

Felix wrote:Hey Asa - this project is looking amazing. Appreciate you taking the time and effort to bring us along.

Question: you mentioned earlier that you invested in some tools for your wiring. What would you say were the best bang for the buck investments you made in that area? I have a couple of projects coming up that I am dreading, but having some nice, shiny tools might help make me a convert to the fun that can be had rewiring an airplane.

Thanks Alex!

You can for sure conquer the wiring. My biggest resource (other than 43.13-1B) was SteinAir.com. They're a company that does mostly experimental custom panels but also sell everything they use on their online store. They also have an amazingly helpful YouTube channel with videos ranging from wire size intros to terminating shields to crimping coax. Everything you need. In those videos they outline what tools they prefer/recommend and normally they support buying mid grade tools. For example they recommend the $40 Dsub crimper instead of the $450 one.

I bought the tools individually and I haven't added up the prices but this kit encompasses what you would need to do what I did:

https://www.steinair.com/product/panel- ... -tool-kit/

You likely will not need the molex crimpers unless you are adding in connectors for ease of serviceability later. You also would only need the Dsub extractors and crimper if you're doing Dsub connectors (radio, intercom, transponder).

The wire strippers, ratching crimper, and a nice (not used for safety wire and such) set of flush cut snips are the items you would want for sure.

https://www.steinair.com/product/automa ... -stripper/
https://www.steinair.com/product/ratche ... rame-only/
https://www.steinair.com/product/flush-cutters/

I had a digital heat gun due to using oratex, but man is it nice to have for wiring.

SteinAir also sells all the milspec wiring and such, and are super helpful on the phone.

asa wrote:

Felix wrote:Hey Asa - this project is looking amazing. Appreciate you taking the time and effort to bring us along.

Question: you mentioned earlier that you invested in some tools for your wiring. What would you say were the best bang for the buck investments you made in that area? I have a couple of projects coming up that I am dreading, but having some nice, shiny tools might help make me a convert to the fun that can be had rewiring an airplane.

Thanks Alex!

You can for sure conquer the wiring. My biggest resource (other than 43.13-1B) was SteinAir.com. They're a company that does mostly experimental custom panels but also sell everything they use on their online store. They also have an amazingly helpful YouTube channel with videos ranging from wire size intros to terminating shields to crimping coax. Everything you need. In those videos they outline what tools they prefer/recommend and normally they support buying mid grade tools. For example they recommend the $40 Dsub crimper instead of the $450 one.

I bought the tools individually and I haven't added up the prices but this kit encompasses what you would need to do what I did.

https://www.steinair.com/product/panel- ... -tool-kit/

You likely will not need the molex crimpers unless you are adding in connectors for ease of serviceability later. You also would only need the Dsub extractors and crimper if you're doing Dsub connectors (radio, intercom, transponder).

The wire strippers, ratching crimper, and a nice (not used for safety wire and such) set of flush cut snips are the items you would want for sure.

https://www.steinair.com/product/automa ... -stripper/
https://www.steinair.com/product/ratche ... rame-only/
https://www.steinair.com/product/flush-cutters/

I had a digital heat gun due to using oratex, but man is it nice to have for wiring.

SteinAir also sells all the milspec wiring and such, and are super helpful on the phone.

Posts like this just cost me money. That looks like really nice kit and I LOVE tools.

SteinAir looks like a fantastic resource - thanks buddy! Pretty soon my wife is going to be wondering what burned a hole in our credit card, and I will be defending my urgent need for strippers, crimpers, and cutters.

No problem Alex, text me if you have any questions.

Doors doors doors. One done, 2 fitted but need finished, 1 (pilot) untouched. This is the only time I wish the Maule had less doors. I've figured out the process though, just gotta chug through the fitment. For anyone else's knowledge, I estimate that having to fit/rebuild the doors will be about a week's worth of work as compared to if I could've just bolted on complete and painted doors.

Pictures from various points of building the copilot door. .

On word; inspirational, on every level. Your skills, abilities and dedication to the process has been a pleasure to watch and enjoy. I thank you for taking us all on this adventure through your posted photos and commentary.

Mapleflt wrote:On word; inspirational, on every level. Your skills, abilities and dedication to the process has been a pleasure to watch and enjoy. I thank you for taking us all on this adventure through your posted photos and commentary.

Thank you Mapleflt! My dedication is now rooted in being able to hear rumors that there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

A door a day keeps the anxiety away. All doors fitted and fabricated. Prep and paint next. I chose to make the door skins all one piece (an option on the Maule drawing) rather than multiple little strips. It uses more of an aluminum sheet and I imagine takes longer but I think it makes a better end result.

No V brace on my squeaking 180 windshield. A little silicone on the outside to seal would have been fine but this one was bedded thoroughly.

I will echo the previous statements. Thank you for sharing your build. So cool to see it come along. I could really use patrol windows on mine. Are you putting in the new style door locks?

If you ever need a free shop hand/visitor I'm just sitting here in AK waiting on summer

mobileandmonitoring wrote:I will echo the previous statements. Thank you for sharing your build. So cool to see it come along. I could really use patrol windows on mine. Are you putting in the new style door locks?

If you ever need a free shop hand/visitor I'm just sitting here in AK waiting on summer

You're welcome to come to small town Kentucky to lend a hand anytime! I did not upgrade to the new style locks... except I did buy a used back seat door of ebay and it came with th new latch system. It's impressive for sure, operates very smoothly. However the kit from Maule is $300/door and the components are above my pay grade and schedule for owner-produced.

The patrol windows on the front are great. Because of the shape of the maule door bulging out, you can look straight down from your normal seating position. I think they are unnecessary for the rear though. I did it on the rear pax door just to match the big window on the left which was welded in already when I got the fuselage.



Another status update. Windshield installed for good. What a pain, but feels great to have it done.



Doors are going through paint/assembly. Pilot door painted and assembled. Rest of them are in process. Did the center part black to "disappear" so it will sorta look like the big back window. We'll see if my imagination matches reality when it's all done. I think it'll be obvious whenever I remove the paper from the plexi.



Overall how she sits currently. Looking angsty and disheveled, ready to break out of this garage.

Doors. Tinted acrylic doesn't look so dark in person. The pilot/copilot opening windows are clear. Would've been smart to leave the protective paper in place on rear door but I just couldn't stand it. Had to see what it looked like. Will refrain from removing it on fronts...

Seats and seatbelts in, mainly verifying fitment and that I have all the right fasteners. Of course this will all come out for final inspection/annual which is now less than 1 month away. My IA is scheduled to start Feb 28th. Will I finish in time? Stay tuned to find out. You may also notice compass hanging on windshield and the **original** dome light re-installed. You can tell its legit Maule OEM because the brand name is Truck-Lite and it's a truck marker light readily available at NAPA. Also notice the different back angle of seats. I fixed the copilot one a few months ago. The pilot one could use a tweak. Everyone complains about Maule seating postion but I believe most of those complaint seats are bent or broken.





Got the doors mostly sealed/weather-stripped. Could not refrain from removing protective coverings from acrylic. Satisfying. We all have our vices. The warnings say not to let it be exposed to sunlight with the covering on anyway and I am moving the plane to the airport in a few days.



Vents! Used a hole saw. I cut from both sides to meet in the middle of the material followed by file/sand. Practiced on scrap first and preferred running the hole saw in reverse so it ground/melted through rather than digging in.

Niiiiiiice! Keep going! Feb 28 is closer than you think!

Question…. Why do the Maule seats break or deform? Weak spot down in the attach area?

Kurt

G44 wrote:Niiiiiiice! Keep going! Feb 28 is closer than you think!

Question…. Why do the Maule seats break or deform? Weak spot down in the attach area?

Kurt

Here's a few reasons that I can think of. First the seats are a simple steel tubing frame with fiberglass seat pan and back topped with foam and upholstry. The tubing doesn't have a good gusset or doublers at the corners where the seat pan and seat back frames meet. This is often an area of repair and added reinforcements after the first repair. Also the seat back fiberglass extends above the tops of the steel tube frame. So the fiberglass can end up breaking off above the frame. Both weak points are put to the test because Maules are not the easiest planes to get in and out of. People often end up supporting a lot of their weight by pushing on the tops of the seat backs while climbing in or out and trying to fold their legs into the smallish door opening. Of course that exerts the max amount of leverage on these weak points. Repeat that every time someone gets in and out and the seats eventually crack and fail. I try to have anyone getting in mine use the exposed tubing in the skylight area to lift themselves up while getting in or out instead of pushing on the seat backs. But even after repeated lessons they often still use the seat back method since some find it ergonomically easier.

gdflys wrote:

G44 wrote:Niiiiiiice! Keep going! Feb 28 is closer than you think!

Question…. Why do the Maule seats break or deform? Weak spot down in the attach area?

Kurt

Here's a few reasons that I can think of. First the seats are a simple steel tubing frame with fiberglass seat pan and back topped with foam and upholstry. The tubing doesn't have a good gusset or doublers at the corners where the seat pan and seat back frames meet. This is often an area of repair and added reinforcements after the first repair. Also the seat back fiberglass extends above the tops of the steel tube frame. So the fiberglass can end up breaking off above the frame. Both weak points are put to the test because Maules are not the easiest planes to get in and out of. People often end up supporting a lot of their weight by pushing on the tops of the seat backs while climbing in or out and trying to fold their legs into the smallish door opening. Of course that exerts the max amount of leverage on these weak points. Repeat that every time someone gets in and out and the seats eventually crack and fail. I try to have anyone getting in mine use the exposed tubing in the skylight area to lift themselves up while getting in or out instead of pushing on the seat backs. But even after repeated lessons they often still use the seat back method since some find it ergonomically easier.

Exactly this. The two failures are different in the way that the fiberglass fails clearly - it breaks and no longer looks the same at all. The steel seems to bend and then eventually crack. I think many people have bent seats but since there’s no egregious fiberglass failure, they never open up the seats to fix. Which is understandable because they are a pain to take apart and put back together.

When I have time and get the seats upholstered, I’d love to extend the steel further up (eliminate fiberglass overhang), gusset and hinge the corners like a scout seat for rear access, and get rid of the fiberglass pan for one made of aluminum sheet with the same dished shape.

I will likely die before I get that much time and motivation. So until then, I’ll repair what I have, the legal way.

Have been doing little things on the cowling. Replaced baffle seals up front, degreased the inside, and did a small amount of sanding in prep for paint eventually. Lots more of that to do, was just seeing what it would be like. Will likely wait until after I get it flying unless I happen to have time. Added anti-chafe tape around boot cowl. The cheap cloth type wouldn't quite fit so I went with the teflon style. Not really sure about this. It may do nothing.



Testing out some stripe schemes. Held on with masking tape for now. I know, I know, it's not normal, I get it. Red matches the wings, in real life its somewhere between the two shades seen in the pictures. Initial design had 1" spacing. Initial feedback said to spread them a bit which I agree with. Who knows what will end up happening or not happening with these. I'm a fan of AeroGraphics but I wasn't sure what I wanted so I found out what material they use (Scotch 220 Marking Vinyl) and ordered a 30" x 10yd roll from the distributor. Was significantly cheaper but you have to cut it yourself of course. What you see here is 52" so I will have lots left.





Cleaned out the hangar I get to use for February. The previous tenant still has some stuff in it as seen. Hangar rent is so cheap here ($80!!!!) that people just hang onto them. I told him he could slowly move the rest of the stuff out if he would just let me move in instead of keeping it another month. Him and his late father build a Zenith in here years ago. They added the foam ceiling which is great. Wish I could keep this longer but in March it goes to the next person on the wait list. The airport manager is really doing me a favor by allowing me to slide in for a month between tenants to finish the project. Small towns are great in some ways.