Backcountry Cherokee!?!? Now you're speaking my language!
I have a 1966 Cherokee 180 and I spend a fair bit of time in the summer exploring old abandoned and remote airstrips.
Every airplane is compromise, with strengths and weaknesses. The Cherokee is no different. The Cherokee's nose gear is very robust, attaching to the engine mount rather than the firewall (a la Cessna), but like most tricycle gear airplanes there isn't a whole lot of prop clearance so you have to be careful of any major dips or potholes. The low wing is both an advantage and a disadvantage in backcountry flying. The low wing gives you much better visibility in turns, which can be a big deal when flying into tight areas. Low wings are also safer in a crash, there's no way around the fact that backcountry flying is a somewhat higher risk form of aviation. More structure underneath you is a good thing. What you lose with the low wing is utility/ease of loading, downward visibility for sightseeing, brush clearance, and the rain/sun protection provided by the high wing.
The Cherokee's wing is interesting and I believe fairly unique. I'm sure one exists, but I can't think of another airplane that uses a laminar flow aerofoil for a high lift application. The reason for this design is that a conventional aerofoil would put the main spar right where the back seat passenger's feet are supposed to go, rather than under the seat. Now the wing isn't bad, but it is different than the Cessnas that you (and I) learned to fly on. The laminar flow aerofoil on the Cherokee develops prodigious amounts of drag on the back side of the power curve. This has implications for both takeoff and landing.
The best takeoff in a stock Cherokee is done jet style: stabilator neutral, accelerate to Vr (50-60 mph depending on weight) then rotate to lift off. This is in contrast to keeping the nosewheel light and allowing it to fly off as one would do in a Cessna. If you hold the yoke too far back in a Cherokee and try to take off you will assume a nose high attitude into ground effect, and carry that attitude right into the trees at the far end of the runway due to the excessive drag at low speed. Don't do this. It gets expensive.
If you get a Cherokee slow on landing you will be rewarded with approximately the same glide ratio as a New York city manhole cover thrown from the top of the Empire State building. This scares many people coming from other machines so they wind up flying ludicrously fast approaches leading them to float down the runway in ground effect. An old Cherokee, with those short, fat wings shouldn't float at all on landing. Stabilator authority (as in lack thereof) can be an issue in the old birds when landing at low speeds, a touch of power can aid greatly with this. I usually don't fully retard the throttle until after the wheels touch. The video on landings from the knowledge base is worth a watch, but be aware that using those techniques with the Cherokee can require quite a blast of power to arrest the descent rate to flare and should be approached with caution. A Cherokee approach flown on the backside of the power curve can be remarkably steep, which is handy for dropping in over an obstacle, but it does require a lot of familiarity with the airplane and its behaviour near stall. Also keep in mind that there isn't a Cherokee on Earth that takes off shorter than it lands so in practical terms a real, edge of the envelope short field landing is mostly an academic exercise anyway. I landed my Cherokee in 400' the other day, which is cool and all, but I sure as hell can't take off in 400' so I didn't really gain anything.
If you want to take your Cherokee into the backcountry you must become intimately familiar with it. Go flying, slow it down and learn how it handles at slow speed. Enter slow flight and keep that stall warning going for an hour. Do steep turns, climbs, and descents all with the stall warning going. Learn where the corners of the envelope are. Even if you never go off pavement I promise that your landings will improve if you do this.
Start paying close attention to how your airplane handles and performs at different weights and in different conditions (a journal can help with this). If a Super Cub is an eagle with its long wings providing plenty of lift and a muscular engine giving lots of power to a light and slender airframe then a Cherokee is a chicken. Have you ever seen a chicken fly? Lots of effort for not much result. Cherokees are built like chickens, short, fat wings, and chubby bodies with not much in the way of power to weight ratio. You MUST respect your airplane's limitations. A heavy Cherokee on a hot day likes the ground like a drunk likes the liquor store. Add a bit of altitude and less than ideal runway and you have a recipe for disaster. Throw the book numbers out the window. Your airplane is ancient and you aren't a test pilot. Fly it with varying loads at different density altitudes and check out how it climbs and how much runway it takes. No locked brake flight school style "short field" takeoffs, you definitely won't be doing them off of some gravel strip, unless you enjoy replacing props and paint. Any surface that isn't pavement adds significantly to your takeoff roll, be aware of that. KEEP THE AIRPLANE LIGHT. A heavy Cherokee is a different animal all together than a light one. Reducing weight is every bit as good (in some ways better) than increasing horsepower. Keeping it light is an easy and free way to stack the deck in your favour.
A Cherokee is far from the most capable backcountry machine, but it will go anywhere a 172 or similar machine will go. With some skill development and common sense you can use your Cherokee to explore 95% of the places the guys with Maules and Super Cubs actually go. I would highly recommend flying out west and hooking up with an instructor who specialises in backcountry flying to take you out and show you the ropes.
contactflying wrote:No link, no cost, but you have to be a legal PIC. I am legal as a passenger only. But I talk a lot, which is how I taught as a legal CFII anyway.
Jim
[email protected]417-830-06380
Jim's book is great. If I ever find myself in that part of the world I'd leap at the opportunity to go flying with him. You should too.
Art Mattson died a few years ago, but his STCs are available at
http://planedynamix.com/ I put a set of his vortex generators on in May and the difference in low speed handling is incredible. They effectively remove a lot of the disadvantage of the laminar flow aerofoil. They're cheap too, as mods go. It took me all of an hour to install them (and I'm mostly inept). I think that every Hershey bar owner should have them installed yesterday (and taper wing owners, they work good on the Six too, but they aren't STC'd for it).
tcj wrote:Take a length of radiator hose, cut it lengthwise and clamp it around the nose wheel strut with hose clamps so the strut doesn't collapse when the nitrogen leaks out. Use a piece long enough that the plane looks like a tail dragger with a nose high attitude on the ground. It'll keep the prop up out of the grass.
http://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.flexible-coupling-112.1000119990.htmlEven comes with the hose clamps. I don't think it's necessary to make it look like a tail dragger (I would be concerned about the effect of the top of the hose being in constant contact with the bottom seal of the nose oleo), but a bit of extra insurance off the bottom stop doesn't hurt. I started looking for a bit of extra protection after making one particularly hard landing. I saw from the grease mark on the nose oleo just how much it had compressed, and compared that distance to the distance of my prop to the ground. I recall it was somewhere in the neighbourhood of an inch. Too close for comfort. Prop strikes will ruin your day.