I use these guys...

https://www.tsflightlines.com/

Can you guys post pics of your braided lines? I'd like to get some parts ordered.

What I see on the other planes in the hanger:

1. AN female fitting on the flared end of the hard tube
2. Male-male coupling - can this be eliminated by a male-female hose or a male fitting on the hard tube?
3. Female-female hose
4. Male AN 45* fitting on the caliper

I'm thinking of going with the 10" hose, I don't see a reason to go any longer than that?

I was told braided lines aren't approved for certified aircraft. My IA also said they aren't ideal because they are harder to inspect for leaks.

I just spec'd out some aeroquip 303 hoses at 15" with straight fittings and got a couple 90s and unions to make it work.

Aside from looking nice, braided hoses have much lower service life than tubing unless there is a LOT of vibration to fatigue solid tubing. There are reasons tube is used in lieu of hose in most cases (weight, size, etc). Hose is preferable when there is significant movement, and will have to be replaced periodically due to age. Plenty of tubes last 60-70 years or more. No hose under stress will last that long i the same application at the slave coupling, I think.

But yes, they look nice. And probably will last plenty long enough, I suppose, as long as they don't snag on a tussock or whatever. I'd rather have tube instead of hose any day for something that is potentially getting dragged through stuff, and they are super easy to fab and replace if there are problems.

If looks are what one is after, a couple of pinch clamps and this might be good:

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel- ... ics&sr=1-3

^^^ that. Thank you I was thinking the exact thing. With the tubing being tucked behind the gear leg they are well protected. The tube can not expand and become mushy either.

I did it this way on my 182 about 15 years ago. A somewhat more streamlined install than the way it was originally. It works perfectly and makes bleeding or adding fluid a little easier. The zip tie should be replaced with an Adel clamp.

On The Fly wrote:I did it this way on my 182 about 15 years ago. A somewhat more streamlined install than the way it was originally. It works perfectly and makes bleeding or adding fluid a little easier. The zip tie should be replaced with an Adel clamp.

Interesting. Usually having the bleeder on top makes it harder to bleed. Hard to push the air out of the piston and back up through the line on my experience. Looks nice and streamlined though.

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A1Skinner wrote:

On The Fly wrote:I did it this way on my 182 about 15 years ago. A somewhat more streamlined install than the way it was originally. It works perfectly and makes bleeding or adding fluid a little easier. The zip tie should be replaced with an Adel clamp.

Interesting. Usually having the bleeder on top makes it harder to bleed. Hard to push the air out of the piston and back up through the line on my experience. Looks nice and streamlined though.

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Harder to bleed? Try impossible! I eventually figured this out as my brake mounting options are very limited due to my winter time wheel ski mounting. One has the bleeder on the bottom, (lower then the in fitting, not really on the bottom) the opposite side it's not, and I can pump my bleed squirter until I get writers cramp and still not get all the air out. What I do now is simple: I pull the 4 bolts that hold the brake to the axle and this allows me to rotate it just enough to bleed it super easy, as easy as the other side.

courierguy wrote: Harder to bleed? Try impossible! I eventually figured this out as my brake mounting options are very limited due to my winter time wheel ski mounting. One has the bleeder on the bottom, (lower then the in fitting, not really on the bottom) the opposite side it's not, and I can pump my bleed squirter until I get writers cramp and still not get all the air out. What I do now is simple: I pull the 4 bolts that hold the brake to the axle and this allows me to rotate it just enough to bleed it super easy, as easy as the other side.

I think a lot of aircraft have some air stuck in the brake system. It's easy to do a bleed poorly.

After a one-sided refill and bleed on my plane by an IA, I noticed large air bubbles in the tubes (with the clear tubes it's obvious). In most planes you cannot see this, many people would never notice the difference.

The air does go into solution when brake pressure is applied and the air eventually works its way up to the next high-point trap. If that's the brake cylinder or caliper then too bad.

This thread has re-inspired me. I am going through with an upgrade to -3AN braided brake lines.

Push the fluid up from the caliper using one of these 150ml syringes and you'll be pleasantly surprised.

They also work as a vacuum bleeder too if you prefer that.

3 Pack 150ml Syringes

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJ9P8FP?re ... b_ap_share

Aryana wrote:Push the fluid up from the caliper using one of these 150ml syringes and you'll be pleasantly surprised.

They also work as a vacuum bleeder too if you prefer that.

3 Pack 150ml Syringes

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJ9P8FP?re ... b_ap_share

Those work even with the bleed screw mounted on top of the caliper?

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Good to see you’re putting that new AME knowledge to work, Dave. And congrats, btw. I’ve never seen a bleeder on top of the caliber either. No surprise it would have bleeding issues.

This mod is supposed to look good.







The guys doing mine butchered it. It really didn’t turn out so hot. Just one of the many reasons why I’m going to A&P school...

I wasn't going to post but here goes. If you are experimental do what you want. If you are certified and the brakes are as original do it as shown in the parts catalog (most parts catalogs are just that, a catalog to order parts not approved data, though may or may not be considered acceptable data). If you have brakes installed by a STC, for example Clevelands the installation drawings specify the size, length and routing of the hose. Some aircraft have factory installed Clevelands and the installation is on the manufactures approval and may not match that required by the STC. And for the certified guys this is not approved owner preventative maintenance, it requires the supervision and acceptance of responsibility for the work done by an A&P. Ask your A&P/ A&P IA how he thinks it should be done and what he is willing to sign off on. Just the opinion of one A&P/IA.


Tim

If the bleeder on the top, I just use a helper to push on the brake while bleeding...never had a problem w air. Is this referring to a different problem?

A1Skinner wrote:

Aryana wrote:Push the fluid up from the caliper using one of these 150ml syringes and you'll be pleasantly surprised.

They also work as a vacuum bleeder too if you prefer that.

3 Pack 150ml Syringes

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJ9P8FP?re ... b_ap_share

Those work even with the bleed screw mounted on top of the caliper?

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Yes! You can pump fluid in to fill the caliper first, then you suck out the air.

Or if you already have the system full of fluid, you just apply a vacuum to the bleeder before cracking it open to pull the air out until bubble free fluid comes out.

pilotryan wrote:This mod is supposed to look good.







The guys doing mine butchered it. It really didn’t turn out so hot. Just one of the many reasons why I’m going to A&P school...

Good for you! You'll be stoked when you can start doing your own work. [emoji1360]

I absolutely, flat out, will NEVER let anyone touch my airplanes.

Ok, that's a lie...I hate sheet metal work and will pay to have someone put a baggage door in my Cessna, but regular maintenance and mods, no way I'm letting anyone else do it. I found out a long time ago that (typically) no matter how good someone is, they never care as much as I do about the quality of work or the attention to detail on my planes.

Heck this goes for every vehicle I own, including my lawnmower!

You'll find that even if you are inexperienced with something, you can do a better job than most pros if you take the time to learn the process, buy the tools, and always use approved parts and data. It may take you longer, but you can typically do a better job than the folks that you can pay to do it.

And your tool collection will grow exponentially! [emoji16]

I've never thought to suck out on the caliper with a syringe. Great idea! I'll have to give it a try! Thanks for the idea.

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A1Skinner wrote:I've never thought to suck out on the caliper with a syringe. Great idea! I'll have to give it a try! Thanks for the idea.

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Poor man's MityVac! [emoji1360]

Aryana wrote:Push the fluid up from the caliper using one of these 150ml syringes and you'll be pleasantly surprised.
They also work as a vacuum bleeder too if you prefer that.
3 Pack 150ml Syringes
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJ9P8FP?re ... b_ap_share

That's a novel way to bleed brakes.
I use one of these, from the bargain bin at Napa.



Works better & less hassle than a friend of mine's spendy shop-air-powered bleeder.