Craziness. I’ll just put my old fuel strip back in. Works fine. I just don’t want to cut out that rectangular hole.

Most of you probably know this but I found out that I can use the fuel gauge portion of a CGR-30-P with my old resistive fuel senders. That seals the deal for me. EI did say that if they are a primary gauge replacement they have to be displayed on the main page. Also, they just started one of their rebate programs yesterday.

The panel looks crazy simple now. Still struggling with getting around the brace that runs from above the pilot control rod back to the firewall. It’s very inconveniently located if one wants a DG below their attitude indicator. Any creative solutions out there other than just off-setting those 2 instruments right or left? I notice many people put shorter instruments below the AI. Here’s a mock-up of what I’m considering. I’d actually like to move the CGR to the right side of the main cluster so the co-pilot can help out with monitoring things. On the metal mock-up I cut the right section of the panel off so i can see behind for spacing when I shove an instrument in the hole. This is just .032 that I can cut with snips and try multiple arrangements.

Engine instruments on the right is much better IMO.

It’s not as important as you’d think to have a perfectly symmetrical 6 pack layout.

Larry at Saircorp was able to center the 'six pack' with respect to the yoke for the new panel on my '57. He has a CAD model of the structure behind the panel, not just the panel itself, which greatly helps with instrument placement/mechanical interference avoidance.

Say...you guys that are using one G5 for not more than VFR flight, are you also installing the GMU 11 magnometer?

I have had the G5 for about one year and do not have the magnetometer the built in gps does fine for vfr

BirdyinBOI wrote:Say...you guys that are using one G5 for not more than VFR flight, are you also installing the GMU 11 magnometer?

In a supercub that I installed a G5 in I had to use a magnetometer to make it legal for night. That's just because in Canada we require a DG for night flight so the G5 replaced that. But for the artificial horizon in my 206 I'm not planning to put a magnoneter in.

Thanks! Kind of what I was thinking.

Say, does anyone know what the “level points” are on my plane? For instance, before I drill the mounting holes in the new panel for the turn coordinator, I’d like to make sure the plane is level in roll. Is it the bottom of the door frames? If I place a level across there and match the turn coordinator to that will level flight give me a level reading on the TC?

How about level for pitch? Any ideas?

Thank so much.

This is in the 63-76 manual, do not have the older one:

2-6. LEVELING. Corresponding points on both upper door sills may be used to level the aircraft
laterally. Reference point for leveling the aircraft longitudinally is the top of the tailcone between the rear window and vertical fin.

dogpilot wrote:This is in the 63-76 manual, do not have the older one:

2-6. LEVELING. Corresponding points on both upper door sills may be used to level the aircraft
laterally. Reference point for leveling the aircraft longitudinally is the top of the tailcone between the rear window and vertical fin.

For non-omnivision (no rear window) models, the longitudinal leveling point is usually the upper door sill.

Jim Hayton at North Sound Aviation says it's the floor. He said the lateral level point is the spar above the panel.

For all you kind responders here who may not see my new thread from last night, I offer it here for your amusement and comment.

I replaced my rubber motor mount to firewall bushings yesterday and the most important lesson was to MAKE CERTAIN that the hang point for the motor is forward of the center slightly to allow for the prop weight. Mine was aft of center due to the the 6-cylinder primer manifold being mounted in the center. I erroneously assumed the hang point was where it was supposed to be. Argh! We managed to “finesse” the top of the motor back toward the firewall and the “only” damage is described below. What was that saying about experience being the best teacher...?

From my other thread on Spinner Damage...

I apologize in advance if this discussion is somewhere else in the Forums but I have very poor luck searching for discussions via the “Search” window.

It looks like I will need a spinner repair (Is that possible?) or replacement on my ‘58 182. While replacing my motor mount bushings at the firewall I accidentally hoisted the spinner into the hoist arm. Crap.

Attached is the pic of the damage. Is repair possible or is replacement inevitable? I think the backing plate should be find. It was a pretty gentle “squash”. The dent looks pretty deep but it’s probably about 1/4”.

Looks like the spinner should be repairable. To bad that you went with the rubber firewall mounts, the newer aluminium ones are much better.

BirdyinBOI wrote:Jim Hayton at North Sound Aviation says it's the floor. He said the lateral level point is the spar above the panel.

Jim Hayton has been in the business a long time & definitely knows his stuff, so I'm sure not gonna call him a liar.
But here's what the factory W&B report for my 53 C180 shows:


Included with the STC paperwork for the t/w conversion on my old 1964 C150TD was a drawing
showing the airplane in level position, with a "whiskey stick" (aka spirit level) on top of the tailcone, aft of the rear window.

Engine control cables...

I’m getting ready to install new cables. I pulled the old ones out but a few of them were not the correct cable...Throttle was a red vernier, mixture was white, etc, etc. A couple of them were routed in ways that just didn’t look correct.

So I bought new cables from McFarlane and Spruce. I have a question about where the throttle cable and the carb heat cables are “supposed” (as in original) to go through the firewall. The carb heat cable can be cut to size but the throttle is a fixed length and I assume the same length as original. The throttle I pulled out exited the firewall directly behind the generator adjustment (belt tensioning) arm and was routed up over the arm and then looped down to the first attach point at a bolt on the casing. That was a wound wire cable. This new cable is a sheathed cable and can’t make that loop over the tensioning arm. I also can’t get the new cable thru the existing firewall hole either (and I don’t know if it was the correct one) so I assume that might not be where the original throttle came out.

Anyone have and drawings of pics with dimensions for identifying the correct holes? Mine is a 1958 182 but I imagine most 182’s and 180’s of my vintage were the same. Many thanks!

My '58 comes out in the same location as yours... It's a wound wire type sheath as well... It then veers off to the right side, up and around the vacuum pump and over the top of the engine before shooting back down to the carb... I know the mount at the end is not stock, as it was a wad of zip ties holding it together when I purchased it. I have since fabricated a nice mount for it. It's a nice smooth curve and has no binding or excess friction.

Probably have to get creative with routing if the new cable won't bend tight enough.

eBay...so you’re saying that the original throttle cable was a wound wire sheath cable like the cabin air,cabin heat and carb heat? At some point they started making the modern sheathed cable (mine is sheathed in blue plastic)....which may still have a wound cable under that, with a threaded stainless end.

This is what McFarlane’s sends out for our year and model. I’ll check to see if they know how to route it so the length is correct. Yes, mine had what sounds like the same routing as your’s. Thanks.

Ebag...so I found a couple pics of where my old throttle cable came through the firewall and down to the carb. My memory was incorrect in that I thought it turned up and went up alongside the vacuum pump and then made a loop back down. Not correct. It just exited the firewall and went over the tensioning arm of the gen and through a clamp on the side of the case. Since there’s no loop over/near the vacuum pump the cable I have from McFarlane (42”) may be long enough. This look familiar to you?

Also, in trying to route my prop control cable from the stock position in the panel, it conflicts with the T-bar coming back, unless I make what feels like too radical a left turn withi it and then back toward the firewall. Almost 2 90 deg turns. It just doesn't seem right. Does the routing of this blue sheathed prop cable look familiar to anyone? Bigrenna....I’m thinking you ought to know. Is it even possible that the prop control cable should be routed around the back side of the yoke? When I put the 2 bends in the prop cable like the pic shows it comes out to the correct length at the governor.

Is any body else freaked out by that photo? I looked at it from a couple different angles. All I could come up with was a tiny T-Rex hand with a big Hey Mabel.