This next week I plan to replace the jackscrews in my C180B with the McFarlane kit, and along the way replace the trim cable chain and accomplish SEL-55-01, the horizontal stabilizer and tailcone inspection. Can any of you folks who have done this, can you give any tips? I have a few questions, for example, is it necessary to remove the fin to get the horiz stab out? If so, can the rudder remain attached, or does it have to come off as well? Thx.

Here’s the McFarlane kit:

https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/produ ... duct/1111/

SEL 55-01:

https://support.cessna.com/custsupt/con ... s_id=49452

If you are taking the stab right out, then yes the fin has to come off. Removing the rudder is probably easier then manhandling the fin and rudder around as one piece.

I sometimes leave the rudder on the vertical when removing it. It’s slightly more of a wobbly mess but it saves some time.

Get some new rubber channel for vertical fin to fuselage it’s probably old and cracked.

Do some corrosion control and paint inside the tail cone.

The aft aluminum horizontal stab hinge reinforcement channel is almost always cracked. Good time to install the steel ones.
The jack screw boots are probably damaged and will need replaced or patched. I have re sewn the seam when it’s only torn thread.

The last few I have taken apart had bad inter granular corrosion on the lower jack screw assembly fitting. It’s crazy expensive from Cessna, $10,000, so if you need one you best find a good used one.

We still have to do this inspection prior to return to service, you guys are scaring the hell out of me with this thread.

Ditto on the scary part! I’m gonna hope the jackscrew base is fine; even 1/2 of Cessna’s price (which is what Skywagon City usually charges for serviceable parts) is too much (now about $12K ea). Regarding the steel channels, I’m guessing those are P/N 0732603-1 and 0732604-1. They are about $600 each from Yingling. Are those steel, or if not, how do you get steel ones?

Looks like something that could be CNC’d or wire EDM’d with ease. If there’s that many bad ones, I’m surprised no one makes a superior replacement like the Ponk gear boxes. Oh wait, FAA approval...never mind.

gbflyer wrote:Looks like something that could be CNC’d or wire EDM’d with ease. If there’s that many bad ones, I’m surprised no one makes a superior replacement like the Ponk gear boxes. Oh wait, FAA approval...never mind.

Yeah, everyone gets to deal with this sometime before December anyway so I think by then we should know how prevalent it really is. It was bad enough for Cessna to make a mandatory service letter, though FAA did not AD it, so it may just be Cessna lawyer CYA kicking in. I am not looking forward to tail disassembly on top of the pile of other work I have to do still (seriously, is this thing ever going to fly?) but am hoping for negative results and just some cleaning/re-priming of parts. Of course if the rudder is off then I should probably paint that, so add one more thing... gah!

Seeing that lower jackscrew bracket with intergranular----then you wonder about lift strut fittings---both upper and lower.

180Marty wrote:Seeing that lower jackscrew bracket with intergranular----then you wonder about lift strut fittings---both upper and lower.

Yes, one always wonders about those...

So far there’s been no known Cessna lift struts failures in flight, so we have that going for us! [emoji2]

Halestorm wrote:

180Marty wrote:Seeing that lower jackscrew bracket with intergranular----then you wonder about lift strut fittings---both upper and lower.

Yes, one always wonders about those...

So far there’s been no known Cessna lift struts failures in flight, so we have that going for us! [emoji2]

Especially while in the middle of some mountain wave turbulence.

jrc111 wrote:Ditto on the scary part! I’m gonna hope the jackscrew base is fine; even 1/2 of Cessna’s price (which is what Skywagon City usually charges for serviceable parts) is too much (now about $12K ea). Regarding the steel channels, I’m guessing those are P/N 0732603-1 and 0732604-1. They are about $600 each from Yingling. Are those steel, or if not, how do you get steel ones?

I can’t find the part number right now. The new ones are steel. Here is a photo.

A few tips?
When the tail is apart, it is a good time to check/lube the elevator and rudder hinge bearings. Make sure they turn smoothly.
On reassembly of the elevators and rudder, I use MS21042-4 lock nuts. This allows the use of a small 5/16 wrench to install the nut and tighten.
Some of the old “worm gear” threads on the jacksrews get very sloppy and I have found worn out shafts at the lower bearing. The McFarlane jackscrew kit which included a new chain is a good is a good replacement upgrade.
Have never found corrosion on the lower bearing housing ...
It is good to LPS spray lube the jackscrews annually, a small “cut” in the boot will allow for insertion of spray nozzle ... the excess running down to the housing.

When I got my 180 back in 1989, I squirted ACF-50 everywhere. It is good stuff in my opinion although a little messy. I'd rather have messy than corrosion though.

180Marty wrote:When I got my 180 back in 1989, I squirted ACF-50 everywhere. It is good stuff in my opinion although a little messy. I'd rather have messy than corrosion though.

Agree. We bought the little bulk spray setup from CorrosionX and used ACF-50 every 2 years. Awesome stuff.

It’s hard to tell from the IPB, but appears that the cracking part is P/N 0732101-4, a foto of which is shown here:

http://hutchaviation.com/store/product_ ... cts_id/205

Yingling has them for $88 each, which from Cessna is basement bargain pricing these days!

PAMR MX wrote:

jrc111 wrote:Ditto on the scary part! I’m gonna hope the jackscrew base is fine; even 1/2 of Cessna’s price (which is what Skywagon City usually charges for serviceable parts) is too much (now about $12K ea). Regarding the steel channels, I’m guessing those are P/N 0732603-1 and 0732604-1. They are about $600 each from Yingling. Are those steel, or if not, how do you get steel ones?

I can’t find the part number right now. The new ones are steel. Here is a photo.

IMG_2704.JPG

Thanks for posting that picture----I just looked at mine and think it is okay. That cast aluminum hinge bracket looks like it could be fab'd by mating two angle irons back to back and edge welding.

So the good news is that the actuator bases had no corrosion and the elevator hinge reinforcing angles had no cracks. The bad news is the LH tailcone reinforcement is broken where it supprts the left aft stab hinge:

.

The original P/N is 0712207-1, which has been superseded by P/N 0712048-7 (drilled $2K, undrilled $5K). I’m thinking I need an undrilled part because of the superseding of the original P/N. Another option is a used original P/N 0712207-1 ($1K), which may or may not match my existing rivet holes.

What do y’all think I should do?

Can't see the whole part from that picture, but could you fabricate (or cause fabrication of) a new one?

Wow for $3k I would deal with a few misplaced holes. It’s usually not a big deal on most parts but I have never changed one of them.

There are about 50 rivets to replace, or many chances to have mismatch, even using oversize rivets (most are -5 already). If the skin was match drilled to the channel/reinforcement, that should work, but if not, there may be problems. Also, the new -7 part may have bigger differences as well. The part has a complex joggle where the stab hinge goes and a 15 deg bend in it’s mid-portion, making me suspect it was formed annealed and then heat treated. That’s out side of my fab skill set. Perhaps the used old -1 part can be purchased and checked for fit, as it’s supposed to be returnable.