Rayden37 wrote:I have the 310 fork/block/strut piston assembly... trying to figure out how to match it up to my 182E. The block is drilled for a AN6 bolt to torque link but my torque link is a AN4 bolt. ...... My A&P is also weary of a logbook entry because of different part numbers on 310 vs 182 heavy duty. Any info would be helpful - thanks
I have the 310 fork on a 182E. I used some bearings for the bolt mismatch: something like a Mcmaster 2938T41. I'd actually prefer the AN-6 links, but AN-4 is adequate. I used the 337 for the part numbering reason you mention.
My setup came with the piston already attached, but I have rebuilt my stock piston as well (remove and re-fit after I re-chromed it). If you are getting the piston from the 310, you may have to cut the barrel down with a wet abrasive saw to match the E model as I had to. A band saw will die in about 4 or 5 revolutions from the chromium, and the water on the abrasive saw preserves the chromium right up to the cut line.
If you instead are moving your old piston to your 310 fork and it is being stubborn, don't bang on it to set it on. There is a way to make it pretty easy. Get a small cheap styrofoam cooler and a cheap toaster oven. Turn the oven up to about 250F, set the block inside. Then drive to a welding supply and get about 1" of liquid nitrogen in the bottom of the cooler (maybe $10-$15...just make sure it is a small cooler. Cups work ok but you need a steady hand with gloves to make it back to the hangar, and your supplier might object due to an abundance of common sense). Come back to hangar, dip the piston end into the LN2 for a couple of minutes, and assemble the block. Impossibly tight fits go together easily this way, and you even have enough time to line up the cross drilled block hole if present.