Forgot to mention I also added blast tubes I purchased from Van's to help keep the PMags at the correct temperature.

I have a liquid cooled engine in my tailwind and use this instead of hose clamps

http://www.clamptitetools.net/

be careful getting the ends tucked in as they are sharp. I find cutting them shorter and flatting them works well.

Tom

Come on Phil...post more here...

delete

What plugs are you using and do you need the trhead adapter inserts?
Thanks

Oops, posted the above pics to the wrong SQ thread, sorry about that Phil, good thing I land better then I type. Meant for aktahoe1's thread

"The EarthX ETX36D is good for up to a 60amp alternator."

Anybody tried to spin a Pponk motor with this battery?

They are not certified.

Glidergeek wrote:"The EarthX ETX36D is good for up to a 60amp alternator."

Anybody tried to spin a Pponk motor with this battery?

That's not what I asked, has anybody tried one in a large cubed engine?

Glidergeek wrote:That's not what I asked, has anybody tried one in a large cubed engine?

Spins a IO520D just fine, even when doing a hot start.

aktahoe1 wrote:Come on Phil...post more here...

As hard as this is to believe with airplanes, there is nothing further I want add/change/mod until it's time for a new engine, at which time it will go to EFII. Randy Goza built the perfect SQ-2.

M6RV6 wrote:What plugs are you using and do you need the trhead adapter inserts?
Thanks

Sorry, just saw this post. I'm using NGK BR8EIX Iridium spark plugs, $9.50 ea from Spruce.

and Auto Plug Adapters (18mm-14mm) w gaskets for SHORT REACH that I purchased as part of the PMag kit.

Here is an update on the PMag mod. Hugely pleased overall. Engine runs much smoother. But the CHT's were 20 degrees hotter.

Once installed you can set two different timing maximum advances. The "A curve" on the PMag is with a jumper wire installed and provides up to 34 degrees of timing advance. The "B curve" is without the jumper and provides up to 39 degrees of timing advance. They recommend starting with the "A curve", especially with high performance engines. That's what mine is set at.

I'm running an O-375 with a compression ration of 9.7, which is considered high for aircraft engines. Installing the PMags as I outlined above increased the CHT's by 20 degrees, and made it impossible for me to try LOP (as the CHT's went even higher, of course it wouldn't run LOP with the Mags anyway) and also impossible to run long distance at a high cruise speed.

As summer heat hit us in Texas I decided to install a ball valve in the MP hose going to the PMags. This effectively removes the extra advance and returns it to near standard mag timing of 26 degrees. I spent hours looking for the perfect, all metal, small hose, ball valve. Finally found it and through an intricate "Rube Goldberg" mix of various "T's" and "Elbows" and "Adapters" came up with a system where I could keep the extra timing advance in cold weather and block it in hot weather.

Funny thing is I never asked myself "why keep the extra advance in cold weather"?

Anyway, yesterday I got everything plumbed up, took photographs to post here, was looking forward to comments like "that Phil, he's such a clever fellow". Then I took her for a test flight.

Now the results were better then I hoped. CHT's are 20 degrees cooler, back where they were before installing the PMags, AND I can run SUPER LOP. Could never go LOP with magnetos, not even a little bit.

Think about that for a moment. Using the tried and true 1930's magneto technology, that so many are afraid to abandon and the FAA forces certificated aircraft to continue using (with a few VERY expensive alternatives) along with the best aviation spark plugs, iridiums, at nearly $100 each plus expensive spark plug wires - and you think you have the best possible solution and that LOP is just something very few carbureted engines can do (which is the prevailing wisdom).

Then change to 1980's electronic ignition, automobile iridium spark plugs at 1/10th the cost, and automobile spark plug wires, and find the the engine actually loves LOP.

What a crock!

Sooooooooo....I know found myself asking "why keep the extra advance in cold weather"? Guess I'll take my Rube Goldberg Contraption back off. But it was a good idea, even if it turned out to be pointless.

That's very cool to read!

I've got stock mags and a carb and haven't been able to get LOP yet. I think there might be a carb update that'll help fuel distribution from what I'm running. If that doesn't work I'll look into ignition, too. I was thinking a PMag and an electronic system on the other side.

I'll start a new thread to get opinions about it when the time gets closer.

Barnstormer wrote:

M6RV6 wrote:What plugs are you using and do you need the trhead adapter inserts?
Thanks

Sorry, just saw this post. I'm using NGK BR8EIX Iridium spark plugs, $9.50 ea from Spruce.

and Auto Plug Adapters (18mm-14mm) w gaskets for SHORT REACH that I purchased as part of the PMag kit.

Next time get em at Kragens or Autozone for about a buck less a plug. Gotta love an experimental. I just did some major changes to my plane. My primary parts source was Ace Hardware and Napa Auto Parts. $10K at a shop cost me $250 and 3 weekends and an 18 pack.

Great info Phil. Would be so nice to modernize the 180 and I'd go one step further----E85 from the local gas station for a $1.85 a gallon.

Barnstormer wrote:I'm running an O-375 with a compression ration of 9.7, which is considered high for aircraft engines.

Wow! You've got that right.

What did they quote you for TBO in the maintenance plan?

I was very tempted by the offer of 290hp with high compression cylinders. It was the same price up front.

Apart from the lower cost ignition components, what are the other benefits you get by changing from an older Bendix / Slick mag type ignition to the newer style?
Do these have all the efficiency benefits of EI but with all the reliability of mechanical mags?

Your thread has got me seriously interested.

Battson wrote:Apart from the lower cost ignition components, what are the other benefits you get by changing from an older Bendix / Slick mag type ignition to the newer style?
Do these have all the efficiency benefits of EI but with all the reliability of mechanical mags?

Your thread has got me seriously interested.

If you're interested in the P-Mags specifically, keep dreaming. The six cylinder version apparently continues to be vaporware. For some reason, probably too complex for me to appreciate, they have promised the model for years but have yet to deliver. I think their self-powered units are a neat device though.

Mine is a Bart built Aero Sport Power engine. Came with their standard 3 year parts/labor warranty. No TBO as it’s an experimental. Being Bart built I expect it to last quite a while. I was planning on replacing it with the EFII R379 this fall but buying the place in Alaska set that back a year or two (also need to first build a hangar on the new place).

Slick mags, which is what was on the engine, need to be replaced/overhauled every 500 hours (okay not with experimentals but). One of them on the 185 failed at 380 hours, the SQ2’s were past the 500 hour mark so I decided to change them out.

The only moving part in the PMags is the shaft, so the only thing that can wear is the shaft/bushing. Traditional magnetos have numerous other moving parts, including ones that wear out by their very design.

The RV guys tell me I saved 1 1/2 pounds per (both my slicks had impulse couplings), but I didn’t confirm that.

Had I decided to install the optional E-Mag Interactive Control And Display I would have the ability to adjust the maximum advance while in flight as well as get status reporting etc. I chose not to go that route due to the added cost and weight, with the only real benefit (as I saw it) of changing timing at other then full throttle operations.

Timing the PMag is super simple. Bring No. 1 to TDC (exhaust or compression, it doesn’t matter) and blow on a hose connected to the PMag until you get a green light. Done. If the lines are Teed they are both set at the same time. Oh, and it doesn’t matter at what angle you install the PMags, line them up anyway you want.

Clearly the PMags put out a much hotter or longer spark as I had Iridiums with the Slicks as well. The PMags make the engine run noticeably smoother, and so much more efficient that I can go REALLY LOP now, like the mixture way out. Be interesting to see what the cruise fuel savings will be.

The crank censored Electronic Ignition types will provide a bigger weight savings, a power increase (probably undetectable other then on a dyno) because there are no mags being turned, and at least some models are infinitely adjustable so you can run mogas in high compression engines by retarding the full throttle timing, then when you want full horsepower change to Avgas and advance the timing. The downside to this type of electronic ignition is there needs to be an operable electrical system since they can’t fire themselves like a PMag or a Slick/Bendix Mag.

Zzz wrote:

Battson wrote:Apart from the lower cost ignition components, what are the other benefits you get by changing from an older Bendix / Slick mag type ignition to the newer style?
Do these have all the efficiency benefits of EI but with all the reliability of mechanical mags?

Your thread has got me seriously interested.

If you're interested in the P-Mags specifically, keep dreaming. The six cylinder version apparently continues to be vaporware. For some reason, probably too complex for me to appreciate, they have promised the model for years but have yet to deliver. I think their self-powered units are a neat device though.

They say their first production units were scheduled for this month, but they have pushed back to August.
So it would seem they are *trying* to make some?

Edit- Just got a reply from Brad at EMag, despite the Osh distractions, which is thorough.
He expects their 6 cylinder production run to start in 30-60 days. So they are obviously getting close.