Is a pimped out, pumped up Lycoming 0-360 any less reliable then a stock one ? No nitrous of turbo just higher compression pistons, port & polished jugs, maybe a cold sump. Does a throttle body offer any measurable performance benefit over a carb, same question for electronic ignition ? What's the best bang for your buck in engine upgrades ?

Soooooo, got my first cup of joe and some time to pontificate. No right or wrong just things to consider. Fist when talking about power upgrades the results of several upgrades are often not cumulative. For example 5hp better exhaust/10 hp flowed heads/5hp intake mods/5 hp advanced cam timing/5 hp compression increase will not give you a 30 hp overall increase. Once you go past that first 5 -7% HP increase the other mods usually are not very effective. What mods are good bang for the buck? If you are building from scratch or doing a top end I would say Porting has little downside, if done correct valves can be recut and valve seat/guides checked for proper alignment saving a lot of problems down the road. Free flowing exhaust can also improve hp with little downside as long as Carb and cabin heat are adequate. Fuel injection may not give any hp increase. The difference between the 180 hp 0360 and 200 hp IO 360 is from compression and different heads not the injection. It does give better fuel burn especially if you have balanced injectors and no carb ice, but now you need fuel pumps. Electronic ignition gives smooth idle and easy starts and improved fuel burn at altitude but little power increase. The major common downside is increase in CHT'S with advanced timing curve. High compression pistons will also give you a HP increase with higher CHT'S.
One thing to consider is building the engine for the location/mission. Things like electronic ignition and fuel injection sound great but do you have local parts or knowledge to service them or does the plane have to be down for 6 weeks waiting on repair. Gravity and a carb are simple and work 24-7. Most 100 LL between Fairbanks and Deadhorse AK is now 15 bucks a gallon (about 10 in Deadhorse) so being able to run Mogas is a great cost savings and what type of high octane fuel will be available in 7 years. That may effect fuel injection and high compression piston choice. Also have to consider vibration issues with some props due to high compression pistons. Not uncommon to see high compression pistons with electron mags have early failure do to high CHT issues. Reliability often depends on how you operate the aircraft and quality of the components. I think all the above changes have a place in upgrades but consider the entire package and do not use CALIFORNIA math to determine the final hp outcome.
DENNY

I recently had to rebuild, or replace my worn out O-360 C1F in my Maule. I chose to go with a LYCON rebuild so I could keep flying while the new engine was being built. I paid extra for CNC port matching and flow balancing the cylinders. I also paid for an extra hour on the dyno to help break the engine in under ideal conditions. LYCON provided DLC coated tappets, and mass balanced parts as part of the base price. When finished, the engine dyno tested at 203 Hp and that was before it was completely broken in. I only have 40 hours on the new engine, but it doesn't burn oil, the additional power is noticeable and I'm a happy camper. I did have to replace the oil cooler with one that has more tubes and vanes because the stock one was having trouble keeping the oil temps in spec. I like having the lower compression cylinders since I don't know what the fate of 100LL will be. With the money spent on the rebuilt engine, I also added a dehumidifier to the engine that I plug in after each flight.
I'm amazed at how much moisture the silica get beads take out of the air remaining in the engine block. I'm doing everything I can to make sure this engine lasts as long as I'm able to keep flying...

Great intel, the BCP community never fails to deliver. Thank you

Flyhound wrote:I recently had to rebuild, or replace my worn out O-360 C1F in my Maule. I chose to go with a LYCON rebuild so I could keep flying while the new engine was being built. I paid extra for CNC port matching and flow balancing the cylinders. I also paid for an extra hour on the dyno to help break the engine in under ideal conditions. LYCON provided DLC coated tappets, and mass balanced parts as part of the base price. When finished, the engine dyno tested at 203 Hp and that was before it was completely broken in. I only have 40 hours on the new engine, but it doesn't burn oil, the additional power is noticeable and I'm a happy camper. I did have to replace the oil cooler with one that has more tubes and vanes because the stock one was having trouble keeping the oil temps in spec. I like having the lower compression cylinders since I don't know what the fate of 100LL will be. With the money spent on the rebuilt engine, I also added a dehumidifier to the engine that I plug in after each flight.
I'm amazed at how much moisture the silica get beads take out of the air remaining in the engine block. I'm doing everything I can to make sure this engine lasts as long as I'm able to keep flying...

What dehumidifier are you using? I'm about to start an engine rebuild and want to take all precautions to avoid corrosion (the reason for the rebuild) in the future.

Several videos/threads on a DIY dehydrator. I made mine somewhat portable out of a an airtight case from Harbor Freight, aquarium pump, and a sight glass. I can get a picture of it if you want.

What dehumidifier are you using? I'm about to start an engine rebuild and want to take all precautions to avoid corrosion (the reason for the rebuild) in the future.

I built my own from plans that KITPLANES Magazine published in their December 2023 magazine.



I epoxied a quick release fitting into a oil-fill spout for the dry air inlet to the engine:


I added the air filter between the silica gel bottle and the pump intake because I had heard some stories of silica build-up in engines connected to a dehydrator without a filter.

Here's a link to that Kitplanes article: https://www.kitplanes.com/oh-dry-up-engine-dehumidifier/

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Here's a link to that Kitplanes article: https://www.kitplanes.com/oh-dry-up-engine-dehumidifier/[/quote]

Thanks for the pictures and the link!

WWhunter wrote:Several videos/threads on a DIY dehydrator. I made mine somewhat portable out of a an airtight case from Harbor Freight, aquarium pump, and a sight glass. I can get a picture of it if you want.

Yeah, it would be great to see pics of your set up.

Apologies for the late reply. I'm a bit of a klutz when it comes to downloading photos.

I am also a Dehumidifier believer.

Having built several different types I find that the Tetra whisper aquarium air pumps are best.
A closed loop system is far more efficient than just pumping moist outside air through a desiccant into the engine.
There are many articles online on how to build your own.
I did buy a Blackmax initially for my IO520 and it did not work at all. Talked with the company and they were very helpful but in the end I returned it.

Tom

What's main difference between this aircraft gasoline engine and ordinary two stroke gasoline engine found in chainsaws and trimmers?
Except their power of course.
Sorry if it's the right topic. If so please guide me in the right direction!
Thanks!

a3holerman wrote:I am also a Dehumidifier believer.


I did buy a Blackmax initially for my IO520 and it did not work at all. Talked with the company and they were very helpful but in the end I returned it.

Tom

What was the issue with the Blackmax that it didn't work for you?