Brian-StevesAircraft wrote:...



There is absolutely no room to work on the back of this engine... Tight to the firewall.. It is actually easier to remove the starter in order to change the oil filter...



This is why you want to make sure you install the rocker shafts before you set the cylinders onto the case... Interference with the other cylinder... If you forget, you will have to remove the cylinder to get them installed...

I feel your pain (please don't ask how I know).

Great thread. Much appreciation to details.

Slow progress.... Too many things I have had to re modify to work right...



Hard to get a picture of it but I had to modify the attach setup for the front baffle that goes under the oil cooler...



Made a new prop cable front attach strap to replace the ugly aluminum one out of what I thought was stainless... Turns out it is titanium... Nice bright white sparks when I was cleaning up the radius on the disk sander..



Here is that clamp in place on the engine...



Had to move the alternator forward to clear the firewall and get a slightly longer belt so that it would rotate far enough down to clear the throttle cable...



Got the exhaust back on...



Made the missing heat shield for the left side engine mount...



Installed said shield... This keeps the high heat from baking the mount and damaging it..



Started making the right side heat shield for the mount...

Tomorrow for sure...

Brian

Got stuck modifying the air box today due to interference with the nose gear.... Something that was unexpected and put me yet another day behind...



The nose gear strut has a nice shiny spot where the air box is rubbing...



Back of the box where the strut interference rubbed a hole in the box...



I at first cut out the area that I had marked in the previous pic... Still had interference so I wound up cutting out a channel for the gear strut..



Making the channel to be riveted in...



Done... Keep in mind, I had to remove the internal flap in order to get my hands in for bucking the rivets... This modification took me all morning to complete due to having to test for fit multiple times and figuring out how to get the new piece installed...



Air box installed on the engine... If you look closely, note that there has been a previous repair where the top of the box was replaced.. Whoever did the repair set the lower portion of the air box back about a half inch creating the problem..



Finished and installed the right side heat shield..

Also installed the mags.. Cleaned and installed the spark plugs.. And adjusted the engine control cables...

Brian

Neat air box repair. Probably saved then owner some money. A new Cessna stainless top skin is $800 and it usually needs a new flange witch will set you back even more. Atlee dodge welds a thick stainless flange on the new Cessna skin but all said and done its around $1300 for just the top skin. You still need to rivet the whole mess together.
I like the new gascolator. I have installed one on every cub I have ever worked on due to the dangerous stock fuel filter. I rarely see one on a Cessna. I wonder about the crashworthiness of the glass bowl deal? Have you ever seen the glass bowl Cessna filter assembly with the glass replaced with an aluminum bowl?

PAMR MX wrote:I rarely see one on a Cessna. I wonder about the crashworthiness of the glass bowl deal? Have you ever seen the glass bowl Cessna filter assembly with the glass replaced with an aluminum bowl?

The late model Cessna's from about 1965 and on have to use an adapter bracket in order to use my Gascolator... All the earlier glass bowl ones are direct replacement... I have seen aluminum replacement for the glass, however you still have to deal with the bail system and two flat gaskets for seals..

Yesterday was a scheduled annual on a Cherokee so no work was done on the 182... Here is today's progress...



This is a better picture of the issue I had with the air box... The flapper arm should be centered below the inlet to the carburetor..



Installed new baffle seal material...



Sean posing with his toy.. [emoji3]



Left side front of the engine... Removed the oil galley plug and installed my fittings to hook up my pre-oiler pump...



Pre-oiler pump... Older than dirt... This thing has done a hundred or so aircraft engines, some flat head Fords.. Couple of small block Fords and one Chevy...



I put in three quarts with this pump... New drill motor because my old one bit it a while back...

https://vimeo.com/147913192

And the moment of truth... Oil pressure was immediate.. Mags checked out good... Did not get enough RPM to cycle the prop... No oil leaks after... As you can tell in the video it was too late to do the break in flight, so will cowl it up and weather permitting fly her on Saturday..

Brian

I have one of Steves gascolators on my 62 180. Works great! Love it!

Weather is going bad today... Forecasting high winds by the afternoon through Sunday... Sean is heading to work for the week so looks like we are going to cowl her up and put it in the small hanger until he gets back and fly her next Friday...

Brian

Weather gods and the planets aligned to finally get the break in flight done today..



https://vimeo.com/150449319

Brian

My bird is home and I could not be happier! Excited to explore with the family in 2016.

I'm happy for you too. What a way to start the new year.

She sure sounds healthy! Congrats gptc and nice work Brian and Steve!!

Yep! Let's go flying!

What prop are you running? Dunno about the C182, but it was my impression that the only props on the Ponk STC for the C180 are the 3-blade Macs.
BTW esp if it's a long prop, you might wanna add the radiator hose mod to the nosegear so you don't bottom it out sometime and hit the prop.

hotrod180 wrote:What prop are you running? Dunno about the C182, but it was my impression that the only props on the Ponk STC for the C180 are the 3-blade Macs.
BTW esp if it's a long prop, you might wanna add the radiator hose mod to the nosegear so you don't bottom it out sometime and hit the prop.

MT prop also approved

With that tire and fork he's not going to hit the prop even with the strut dead flat

2 and three blade mt props are approved, two blade 82" c201 isn't, other two blades are.

gptc wrote:My bird is home and I could not be happier! Excited to explore with the family in 2016.

Jeez, that's one helluva nose wheel!

I sold a Mac C66 82" to the previous owner of this 182, looks like that's still what's on there. Great prop, unless going to 3-blade, I wouldn't swap it out and I've owned an MT 2 blade as well. The C66 pulled harder than any other 82" I've run.

Skalwag is right. Sucker pulls hard! Now to fix the Texas farm boy paint job.

gptc wrote:

Maybe it's already been discussed in this epic 5-page thread, but I see your airplane has the 185-like 3 window fuselage. I thought those style 182's also had the swept tail-- did you put that square tail on it? Sure looks better than a swept.

It was converted to a straight tail. This is a 1960 C model. First year with of the swept tail.