In changing engines I can't get the AN823 fitting out of the oil galley of the 470U where oil pressure line connects. The old 180 has copper lines for pressure and uses the AN822 fitting. When the shop removed it they messed the threads up. The 180K that started in Canada has a hose instead of copper. I was excited when I found the 823 yesterday but the flare end is too big for the hose fitting. A half inch wrench is used on the hose.My question is what number AN823 do I order. Also wondering about the hose since it is ancient.

Sounds like the hose is dash 3 or 3/16 ID, throw it away very quickly and buy a new hose that is dash 4 for your new fitting. It’s foolish to use an old hose on a flying machine.

If you need to use the same fitting here’s a size guide: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/an823tech.pdf

I'm sure you are aware of it and have just forgotten but the fitting that is suppose to be in the engine has a restriction in it to reduce the rate at which you loose oil if the line breaks. If you can't find the correct fitting you can solder a brass fitting an drill a very small hole in it.

Tim

I just looked, aircraft spruce has the correct fitting, kind of pricey for what it is at $42.70. Says it is a .040 dia hole. Modified steel fitting which is a good idea rather than aluminum.

I’ve owner assisted 2 engine changes. 1974 T210L and 1976 A185F. Both had steel fittings and appeared to be solder filled with a drilled orifice. I would expect it was silver solder. Can’t tell you the orifice drill size.

There’s a part number in the engine install page of the airframe parts manual for this fitting but I bet it’s expensive, if available. Think owner produced part. You need a sample to determine the orifice size.

My IPC only goes back to 1974, but calls out this:

AN912-3 bushing
0752037-1 elbow-restrictor or
0752037-3 elbow-restrictor

You’ll need to verify for your serial number. This is only to show that there is a specific Cessna part number.

Thank you guys for the info and ideas. I knew it was supposed to be a small hole and when I saw the big one thought that goes with the hose. Here the little bugger is in all its glory in the wrong crankcase. I put a magnet on it and it is steel so probably like the $42 job.

So take your propane torch and heat all the way around that fitting, then grab it with a thick tubing crow's foot and spin it out. Propane heat is the key. It's in an aluminum case, so the aluminum will expand more quickly and to a greater degree than the steel fitting will. I was always taught that the greatest expansion rate was right around 250-300 degrees, so you don't need to try to burn it out or anything. Save yourself the $42.
John

Even better - eliminate the oil line coming into the cabin and use a sender unit/electric gage?

C180_guy wrote:Even better - eliminate the oil line coming into the cabin and use a sender unit/electric gage?

Still need a hose running to the sender unit, so you still need the orifice to prevent oil loss if the hose breaks.

A1Skinner wrote:

C180_guy wrote:Even better - eliminate the oil line coming into the cabin and use a sender unit/electric gage?

Still need a hose running to the sender unit, so you still need the orifice to prevent oil loss if the hose breaks.

The sender/sensor screws into the side of the engine and a wire attaches to a terminal on the sender.

The sender/sensor screws into the side of the engine and a wire attaches to a terminal on the sender.

Make sure there’s a basis of eligibility for this tactic. I’d be worried about vibration breaking the sender and having it spew oil. My only experience is with STC’d engine management systems, and they each required a hose and a remote mount for the sender, but maybe there’s another install instruction you can follow.

C180_guy wrote:

A1Skinner wrote:

C180_guy wrote:Even better - eliminate the oil line coming into the cabin and use a sender unit/electric gage?

Still need a hose running to the sender unit, so you still need the orifice to prevent oil loss if the hose breaks.

The sender/sensor screws into the side of the engine and a wire attaches to a terminal on the sender.

Exactly what pinecone said. All the ones I have installed call for a hose in between the sender and engine to prevent the sender breaking off due to vibration.

Screwed into the side of the engine (in between # 2 and #4) was the factory set-up on the '57, maybe other years

C180_guy wrote:Screwed into the side of the engine (in between # 2 and #4) was the factory set-up on the '57, maybe other years

Cessna used electric oil pressure gauges in 1957??

Correct. The signal goes to the Stewart Warner four gage cluster. The sender unit is also a S-W produced item.

I have the electric sender in a 182B. Interested in a part number or equivalent replacement.

C180_guy wrote:Correct. The signal goes to the Stewart Warner four gage cluster. The sender unit is also a S-W produced item.

I stand corrected. All of the approved after market ones that I know of require a hose installed for vibration purposes.

I wanted to stay with dash 3 hose so I wouldn't have to change the firewall fitting. I was under the instrument panel hooking up wires for the Horizon tach and see I have stainless 1/8 inch line to the oil pressure guage so like that. I got a new steel fitting and the mechanic I am working with brazed and drilled it. Also, made a new hose. Now if I can get the two front inter cylinder baffles by the engine mount legs stuffed up in there( wondering if the 520 cylinders are making it more difficult), I think the hardest part is over----I hope. Have done the old style Lord mounts a few times and think I like the newer style better in some ways.