There was some talk on another thread about refueling setups, here is what I came up with. I started with a trailer from craiglist. I traded for the fuel tank, steam cleaned and inspected it. The bottom of the tank has 4 ports. I put brass plugs in three of them, then welded and aluminum plug into one of the holes that had damaged threads. I welded a 2 inch NPT bung into the top of the tank to accept the pump. The tool box on the front houses a group 27 battery, an isolator switch, solar panel connection, and room for some oil and rags, and misc. The positive and negative on the pump are wired to the battery and isolator with an inline fuse that came with the pump. The pump has a ground point that I ties to the static reel and the trailer frame. I also plan to add a drag chain or static wik to drag the ground and dissipate any static build-up. I wanted the trailer to be a stand alone system so I bought the 2.5w solar charger/maintainer to put on top of the toolbox, instead of charging off of my truck. We'll see how this works, I've never used any solar products, but after all of CourierGuy's posts, I had to to do it . Yesterday I pressurized the tank and leak checked it, so I should be ready for a hundred gallons of $2.89/gal ethanol free mogas! I've been paying $6.58/gal for 100ll so it shouldn't take long to pay for itself.


Here is my nearly finished product:
4x8 utility trailer from Craigslist-$85
105 gallon Freightliner Saddle Tank-Traded for an air hammer
GPI MS150 12V pump-$409.99
Goldenrod Waterblock 10 Micron filter-$49.99
Tool Box-Freebie from my dad(it's the seat box from an old Kenworth)
Plastic Batter box-$11.99
Battery Isolator-$11.99
2.5 Watt Solar Charger/Maintainer-$38.95
Static Reel-$49.00 from Ebay
Tank bung from Boyd welding-$11.95
Misc. Plugs from McMaster-$20.00

It looks like you have a nice setup. I may look into purchasing a solar panel if yours works out for you. Here is the one I built. It hasn't saved me much money in terms of gas since I still burn 100LL but it keeps me off of the pavement at the airport.

Wow, nice looking setups! Now that you have the capability of buying several hundred gallons at a time, don't. Wait a few days, the way the price continues to drop the last few weeks it may save you even more money! I filled my 300 gallon tank for $3.17 a month or so ago, and thought I was cutting a fat hog In an effort to use it up, I am fueling two of my daily drivers with the E0 regular (the modified Rotax I use doesn't need anything better, at my altitude), just to use it up faster!

I have used a 10 watt PV panel for the last 25 years, the same one, to pump all my fuel. Junk batteries, or almost junk anyway, not even deep cycle just too wore out for the vehicles as a starter battery. I'd consider 10 watts as a minimum, and like real estate, it's all about location. Mine points true south, and while a 45 degree angle would work best at my latitude year round, mine is vertical as it is simply secured to the side of the fuel outbuilding.

The proper way to determine what to use, is to figure how many watts those 12 VDC fuel pumps use, then figure how many hours (or minutes) per day or week you may need to run it, and then get a PV panel that will slightly exceed that amount of power on a routine basis. Figure (approx.#) 4 to 6 hrs of full output per day on an annual basis, that will be pretty close to how many amp hrs a panel puts out, if aimed halfway correctly. Or, just do what I did, and use what you have......buying new, get a multi crystalline type, they are preferred over the amorphous type (what you have jeredp) they are longer lived (pretty much forever) and put out more power per sq. in. 99% or more of what you see on homes are the multi types. Like a checking account, any solar system is best when a bit more money/power then needed is deposited. Also these small panels get a lot cheaper the bigger they get, cheaper per watt. As an example, I just googled "20 watt solar panel" and bang, there is a multi for $70.00 or $3.50 per watt. The little 2.5 watt maintainer cost $15.60 per watt. So, especially if trailer mounted, and possibly subject to less then ideal siting, go 10 watt min. 20 won't hurt but now you also need a charge controller, but a simple one can be had for around 30 bucks.

This 3060 watt system I set up last week would do it!

@ Farmaule & @ Jaredp

Beautiful builds. Very nice.

Quick question. Would you ever consider a similar covered or enclosed trailer, properly vented of course and with hinged or take off access panels. I ask because I was wondering about options in case one wants to leave it parked outside.

That's a good looking set up.
You could also tie your battery into the charging system on your pickup so it would charge in tow.
If your pickup already has a 7 way plug on it it probably already has a dedicated pin wired for charging.

Denali wrote:@ Farmaule & @ Jaredp

Beautiful builds. Very nice.

Quick question. Would you ever consider a similar covered or enclosed trailer, properly vented of course and with hinged or take off access panels. I ask because I was wondering about options in case one wants to leave it parked outside.

I personaly would not, because of the build up of fumes. I'm over cautious as a result of 7 years in the fire service. My setup is waterproof in theory, however I plan to put it under a lean-to or portable car port to keep it in the shade and out of the rain.

These make nice switches.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea- ... 72_004_505

I considered using a small enclosed trailer. I wasn't sure how legal my setup would be going down the main road, I thought hiding the tank may be a benefit. At the end of the day I was more concerned with the buildup of fumes so I ended up with the open trailer. I think I may put some human waste stickers or biohazard stickers on the tank. That should keep the D.O.T. away. Right now I just keep a Batt tender JR hooked to it. I like the idea of solar for sure. When I get home next month I will definitely make a purchase.Thanks for all of the info.

FARMAULE wrote:I considered using a small enclosed trailer. I wasn't sure how legal my setup would be going down the main road, I thought hiding the tank may be a benefit. At the end of the day I was more concerned with the buildup of fumes so I ended up with the open trailer. I think I may put some human waste stickers or biohazard stickers on the tank. That should keep the D.O.T. away. Right now I just keep a Batt tender JR hooked to it. I like the idea of solar for sure. When I get home next month I will definitely make a purchase.Thanks for all of the info.

I'm not sure how it is in other states but in WA, under 119 gal for personal use is totaly legal on the road. Anything over requires hazmat cdl, and placards. Another note regarding legal, I called GPI when I purchased the pump to ask them the difference between their aviation pump and the one I got. Basicly, it's paperwork. GPI says their aviation model is FAA approved and there is no difference physicaly in the two pumps.

I helped a friend rebuild a trailer. We did build a cover over it. I think covering the tank is a good ideal to keep it out of prying eyes of thieves or anyone that would want to cause you problems. It is also a good place to store oil, ladder, wing covers and other gear.
DENNY

Very good idea with the Semi fuel tanks! I may do the same. But mine might have to be polished.

58Skylane wrote:Very good idea with the Semi fuel tanks! I may do the same. But mine might have to be polished.

Mine is getting polished this week before i fill it

Regardng the photo-voltaics,

This company has a lot of really funky ...and very affordable... gadgets if you have a knack for electronics.
http://www.allelectronics.com/
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/565/solar-panels-and-photovoltaics/1.html

Their inventory changes a lot because they buy "great deals and surplus" . I was trying to post a link to a sophisticated voltage regulator box they had for about 30 dollars, but seems it is no longer available. Sold out I guess. It provided constant initial charging voltage regulation as well as ability to then go to top off and trickle. I use it on a solar panel hooked up to the batteries on a backhoe I have. I used to be active in amateur (ham) radio, and so I built a lot .

This company also has a LOT of cool parts, switches, mic buttons, etc for avionics.

courierguy wrote:Or, just do what I did, and use what you have......buying new, get a multi crystalline type, they are preferred over the amorphous type (what you have jeredp) they are longer lived (pretty much forever) and put out more power per sq. in.

courierguy

You are in the business and know better than me. I have always been of the opinion that mono crystal panels were more efficient than multi crystal panels. My off grid system is all mono. Am I wasting my money? Also, where is the industry headed? Will Graphene make a significant contribution to a more efficient panel?

Nizina

Jeredp wrote:

FARMAULE wrote:I considered using a small enclosed trailer. I wasn't sure how legal my setup would be going down the main road, I thought hiding the tank may be a benefit. At the end of the day I was more concerned with the buildup of fumes so I ended up with the open trailer. I think I may put some human waste stickers or biohazard stickers on the tank. That should keep the D.O.T. away. Right now I just keep a Batt tender JR hooked to it. I like the idea of solar for sure. When I get home next month I will definitely make a purchase.Thanks for all of the info.

I'm not sure how it is in other states but in WA, under 119 gal for personal use is totaly legal on the road. Anything over requires hazmat cdl, and placards. Another note regarding legal, I called GPI when I purchased the pump to ask them the difference between their aviation pump and the one I got. Basicly, it's paperwork. GPI says their aviation model is FAA approved and there is no difference physicaly in the two pumps.

Pick this one apart: from http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/ti ... tion/383.5
has to do with Tanker Endorsement to a CDL

"Tank vehicle means any "commercial motor vehicle" that is designed to transport any liquid or gaseous materials within a tank or tanks having an individual rated capacity of more than 119 gallons and an aggregate rated capacity of 1,000 gallons or more that is either permanently or temporarily attached to the vehicle or the chassis. A commercial motor vehicle transporting an empty storage container tank, not designed for transportation, with a rated capacity of 1,000 gallons or more that is temporarily attached to a flatbed trailer is not considered a tank vehicle".

So if you transport with your car you might not fall into this. But if you transport with your pick up you might.

Jeredp wrote: I'm not sure how it is in other states but in WA, under 119 gal for personal use is totaly legal on the road. Anything over requires hazmat cdl, and placards. ....

If you're on the west side around Puget Sound, the state ferries have some rules about gas hauling. Once years ago, they refused to let me on with three 5 gallon cans in the back of my pickup.

I'm lucky to have a good source of e-zero gas at a Cenex Co-op close to the airport, so hauling mogas in 5 gallon cans works well for me. Not able to buy a shitload when the price is really low, but I'm not gonna get stuck with a bunch of expensive gas when the prices drop either.

For those of you that buy mogas in Idaho and use it in your plane, the state of Idaho will reimburse you 15 cents per gallon. I do it every year and it works very well.

flyer

flyer wrote:For those of you that buy mogas in Idaho and use it in your plane, the state of Idaho will reimburse you 15 cents per gallon. I do it every year and it works very well.

Aren't you supposed to show what you used the fuel for and they keep the tax for that use? That's how I read the regs when I looked into it; they take off the road tax but add in the aviation tax and send you the balance. It is nice to get the money moved from roads to airports but to me it wasn't worth the hassle so I elected to not bother with it.

I took a 55 gallon tank out of my boat and plan to use it to fill my plane. I don't really want to register and maintain a trailer, and I have no place to put another trailer so I'm just going to put the tank in the bed of my pickup.

Whee

The difference between av gas and mo gas is 15 cents. That is what they pay you. I save my receipts but so far they have never asked to see them. It is just a matter of filling out a form. Very easy. The Idaho Aviation division then receives that tax money the way I understand it.
It may not seem like much to you high rollers but I will get back about $100 again this year.

flyer

Cool, I thought the return was less than that. I remember someone on here got hassled a little bit and I thought for a few dollars it wasn't worth it. I'd do it for 100$ though.