mountainmatt wrote:Looks great Tom. How do you like flying with the CGR-30?

I'll guess 1087.

I'd like to hear about the CGR-30 also.....
Jeff

I LOVE the cgr. It's awesome. Had one egt probe go bad or was bad. Worked for three hours and went bad. Got to call EI. But the more I fly with the cgr the more I like it. Same with the trig radios. I find that I'm leaning more not. I put a vernier mixture in as well

Well that escalated quickly

So for a the last year or so I've been flying on a borrowed wing, while I rebuild mine. It had a bent spar and some busted ribs.


This was my first time covering anything and I learned that what I thought ready to cover isn't really ready. I had a friend fly out from nc to help after Christmas. Lots of long nights and shiner kept us motivated



We were able to get it covered and the rib stitching laid out in a couple days. Now the fun part


How come everyone leaves when it's time to stitch?


Got a sweet new hat


Next was taping


Then some brush coats of poly brush

Now to the paint booth




Finally on to silver.



I did leave out all the fun of going back over and sticking down any lifted pinks and sanding and spraying and sanding and spraying and now the wing is ready for paint. I'm going to paint everything at once.

Should a let us know, happy to help out. Unless you're in TX

Bearhawk Builder wrote:Should a let us know, happy to help out. Unless you're in TX

Still in tx. Figure I will do it while I can and have the knowledge of Steve here.

Decided to blast and prime and paint my steel parts in the wing. Glad I did

Got some new hinges from Dakota cub, off to blast the cad coating. Paint doesn't stick to them that good.
Pulled the windows and windshield and engine. [IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160305/a4e1ac0b215f427f91fd3b157243da64.jpg[/and boot cowl IMG]


Stealth cub. Blends in with its environment.


Cut the u channel off the front of the d window on the right


Piper welded that channel on and never primed under it. The top and bottom are welded and then the channel is drilled to hold interior panel screws.

Looking a Blackrock's Baja pictures, it looks like Bearhawk doesn't do channels with unpainted tubing in the middle. Might be a better idea.

You're into it now Tom, aren't you glad you don't know what you don't know?

Building a 3 piece boot cowl, nut plates everywhere. Titanium firewall

Looks great! Wish I had those metal working skills.

Why are you fastening the boot cowl with nut plates? Lots of Bearhawk guys do the same but I can't think of any reason I'd want the boot cowl removable.

Interesting style of just polybrush under the tape area before laying tapes.... I always brush the whole wing to seal it, then lay the tapes.
Jon, I like the boot cowl removeable in case you've got some work to do up there. It doesn't happen often, but it is sometimes easier than standing on your head.
John

I'm doing the same. Nutplate mania. Tom are you doing them with countersunk screws? That's the one that gets me in terms of effort involved. Have to dimple for the flush rivets for the nutplate wings, and dimple for the countersunk screw, and relieve the former to accommodate the dimpled nutplate. Ugh.

My instrument panel will be removable with a few screws and I can't think of anything else I'd need to work on that removing the boot cowl would allow me access to. I'm all ears though; I want to do it right the first time but I also don't want to do anything that isn't necessary.

$00.02 USD

Removable boot cowls seems "Mo Beta Brah" (superior). There will be a day when... At least debugging a system you will be possibly thankful.

But, time is money and better to get her in the air fast. (Unsolicited opinion) YMMV

Either way, I have never seen a removable boot cowl but, wish I had several times!

I had a panel that would "Sink a Battleship" on my old PA23-250C. There were several side/forward panels that made maintenance much easier on avionics etc....
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piper_PA-23

Set up the pilots side if the boot cowl to be removable in the S20. It's already been taken off, too. [emoji12]

My goal is to have the lightest, best performing cub around, with an electrical system. We incorporate things into the rebuilds after working on Cubs and seeing what doesn't work. We had to do some avionics work on the last cub we built, and you pull the panel off and get behind the panel. It's great. Plus you can hang the engine and run all the cables and whatnot with out the boot cowl on. That's another plus.

Thanks for the explanation Tom and everyone else. Sorry I derailed your thread a little.

I want to build the lightest, best performing Bearhawk around with an electrical system. All those nut plates and screws weigh ounces more than a rivet. Ounces make pounds[emoji3]. Plus they take time to install. I don't know what I'll do; making one side removable like GB did sounds like a good option since I can't make up my mind.

whee wrote:Thanks for the explanation Tom and everyone else. Sorry I derailed your thread a little.

I want to build the lightest, best performing Bearhawk around with an electrical system. All those nut plates and screws weigh ounces more than a rivet. Ounces make pounds[emoji3]. Plus they take time to install. I don't know what I'll do; making one side removable like GB did sounds like a good option since I can't make up my mind.

I think the weight of nutplates and screws is nothing in comparison to the extra effort.