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Tested it today on the #4 bottom and #2 top plugs.

The first 2-3 threads from the ground strap are totally useless for grounding. Totally covered in deposits. After that, I saw a 0.9 ohm resistance from the ground strap. I saw the exact same number at the bottom of the copper gasket. Saw the same numbers on both plugs and both ground straps on each. I got my resistance values from the thread face opposite the ground strap since that's the part that would be in contact with the head threads.

The same resistance means there's not really any propensity for one path to be taken over the other.

So it looks like it's a toss up. Probably goes both ways randomly or something like that.

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CamTom12 wrote:Tested it today on the #4 bottom and #2 top plugs.

The first 2-3 threads from the ground strap are totally useless for grounding. Totally covered in deposits. After that, I saw a 0.9 ohm resistance from the ground strap. I saw the exact same number at the bottom of the copper gasket. Saw the same numbers on both plugs and both ground straps on each. I got my resistance values from the thread face opposite the ground strap since that's the part that would be in contact with the head threads.

The same resistance means there's not really any propensity for one path to be taken over the other.

So it looks like it's a toss up. Probably goes both ways randomly or something like that.

There's no way that's even close to being as opinionated, polarized or unfounded as a statement in this forum needs to be in order to be considered fact...

On a serious note...clean those plugs!

Hammer wrote:On a serious note...clean those plugs!

Did better than clean them!

Cam good. Still, I like new. The threads go through hell and are harder to maintain.

But, I agree there is a path to GND from threads. It's just harder to keep it that way compared to a nice shinny copper gasket.

One question for those of you that think you need a new gasket to improve the conductivity of the ground. Do you clean the spark plug cylinder boss surface till bright to remove oxidation? Keep in mind that construction electrical codes require use of a special cleaner oxidation preventive when copper and aluminum are connected together.

Tim

Cam, I'm curious why you went with the 37BY plugs, instead of the more usual 38E or 40E's?
A friend of mine claims they're more resistant to lead fouling if you run 100LL, but I've never had a problem with the standard plugs running mainly car gas.
I checked the application chart, FWIW they're approved for 320 Lyc's but not for my 470K Continental.

I heard good reports - some folks thought they even had a power increase. I figured that the further I could get the spark into the chamber the better, for both anti-fouling and for making power.

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CamTom12 wrote:I heard good reports - some folks thought they even had a power increase. I figured that the further I could get the spark into the chamber the better, for both anti-fouling and for making power.

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I used the long reach plugs for years on Lyc O 360s, many of which are prone to lead fouling. And, those engines generally are not approved for auto gas.

The long reach plugs work great and stay cleaner longer. I've run 360s that needed plugs cleaned every ~20 hours with standard plugs.

I've also run fine wires, but the long reach actually work as well or better.

MTV

mtv wrote:

CamTom12 wrote:I heard good reports - some folks thought they even had a power increase. I figured that the further I could get the spark into the chamber the better, for both anti-fouling and for making power.

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I used the long reach plugs for years on Lyc O 360s, many of which are prone to lead fouling. And, those engines generally are not approved for auto gas.

The long reach plugs work great and stay cleaner longer. I've run 360s that needed plugs cleaned every ~20 hours with standard plugs.

I've also run fine wires, but the long reach actually work as well or better.

MTV

I thought about fine wires as well - then I saw the price tag!

Why do I have to use a copper gasket in the oil screen of my small continental? Is it conductivity or resistivity? It could also be impedance since there might actually be an imaginary component.

I certainly can be (and am often) wrong - but I thought it was more about getting the right torque - and a copper washer gives a better seal with lower torque values. I dunno. I'm pretty sure ll those threads when tightened are making a pretty good ground connection to threads in the case.



Let me tell you something, pendejo. You pull any of your crazy shit with us, you flash a piece out on the lanes, I'll take it away from you, stick it up your ass and pull the fucking trigger 'til it goes "click."

- de jesus

soyAnarchisto wrote:I certainly can be (and am often) wrong - but I thought it was more about getting the right torque - and a copper washer gives a better seal with lower torque values. I dunno. I'm pretty sure ll those threads when tightened are making a pretty good ground connection to threads in the case.

I thought the same about the ground path but the resistance values aren't really definitive one way or the other. It seems like it could take either path. But a really good reason to use new or annealed gaskets is to seal the plug to the head. Reusing heat cycled copper gaskets without annealing would be less likely to seal for sure, though there would be a negligible difference in resistance. There's also a folded steel gasket you can use that's similar to an automotive style gasket but they're not reusable, annealed or not.

soyAnarchisto wrote:Why do I have to use a copper gasket in the oil screen of my small continental? Is it conductivity or resistivity? It could also be impedance since there might actually be an imaginary component.

I certainly can be (and am often) wrong - but I thought it was more about getting the right torque - and a copper washer gives a better seal with lower torque values. I dunno. I'm pretty sure ll those threads when tightened are making a pretty good ground connection to threads in the case.



Let me tell you something, pendejo. You pull any of your crazy shit with us, you flash a piece out on the lanes, I'll take it away from you, stick it up your ass and pull the fucking trigger 'til it goes "click."

- de jesus

Bingo.

MTV

mtv wrote:

soyAnarchisto wrote:
I certainly can be (and am often) wrong - but I thought it was more about getting the right torque - and a copper washer gives a better seal with lower torque values. I dunno. I'm pretty sure ll those threads when tightened are making a pretty good ground connection to threads in the case

Bingo.

MTV

x3. Copper is so soft and compressible at low torque. Also, I believe it was a simple heat-resistant gasket at the time it became standard.

What a hilarious thread.

What page am I on?

I have (2) boxes of 100 new copper gaskets for sale. I decided not to follow any advice from the engine manufacture and use dirty, bent, torched gaskets.

Actually, maybe not.

8GCBC wrote:I have (2) boxes of 100 new copper gaskets for sale. I decided not to follow any advice from the engine manufacture and use dirty, bent, torched gaskets.

Actually, maybe not.

I feel like you've chosen the silliest and simplest of false dichotomies to make your stand. The best thing about new gaskets is their shininess. I will not downplay the horror of torched and quenched copper though. It looks hideous against fresh clean Lycoming grey.

Zzz wrote:

8GCBC wrote:I have (2) boxes of 100 new copper gaskets for sale. I decided not to follow any advice from the engine manufacture and use dirty, bent, torched gaskets.

Actually, maybe not.

I feel like you've chosen the silliest and simplest of false dichotomies to make your stand. The best thing about new gaskets is their shininess. I will not downplay the horror of torched and quenched copper though. It looks hideous against fresh clean Lycoming grey.

Its a Service Instruction. Good luck with your mags! Hope it works out.

8GCBC wrote:

Zzz wrote:

8GCBC wrote:I have (2) boxes of 100 new copper gaskets for sale. I decided not to follow any advice from the engine manufacture and use dirty, bent, torched gaskets.

Actually, maybe not.

I feel like you've chosen the silliest and simplest of false dichotomies to make your stand. The best thing about new gaskets is their shininess. I will not downplay the horror of torched and quenched copper though. It looks hideous against fresh clean Lycoming grey.

Its a Service Instruction. Good luck with your mags! Hope it works out.

Ummm good luck with YOUR mags, too?

One of my cylinders has a ring-type CHT thermal sensor which takes the place of the gasket, and some engine monitors have one on every cylinder. It never gets replaced or annealed, yet it's STC'd for the engine. If spark plug gaskets are soooo important to the life of the mags, how do you explain that? One would suspect that if there was any measurable difference to the ignition system then instillation of the thermal sensor would mandate a revised magneto inspection or overhaul time, but it doesn't so far as I know. These ring sensors have been around a while and are being used in every type of engine imaginable, so what gives?

Considering that the same sensor has been getting reused for the past 1,300 hours (torqued identically to all the other plugs), and it doesn't leak, I'm starting to wonder if even annealing the gaskets is all that important...

That last part is a bit sarcastic of course, but I'm genuinely curious if theres any documented down side to these ring sensors. If not, then the whole new vs annealed vs reused-without-thinking-about-it debate just got one level more ridiculous.

Ridiculous debates aren't all bad...prior to this I never really gave any thought to the importance of grounding, however it's done. As my dad said many times before he was committed, just 'cause someones crazy doesn't mean their wrong.