[quote][Details MTV? Sorry rob derailed again/quote]
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Gary

littlewheelinback wrote:So...what would be a ballpark figure for having a 170's paint stripped by a paint shop?

16k here.

littlewheelinback wrote:4 Grand seems pretty reasonable really. That looks like a lot of work....

i agree. somthing wrong with that quote. probably not taking off any alerons , flaps etc

amacbean wrote:Not in the same league with Rob, but I spent time today stripping the "new" door for the 170, it's almost finished, but dude, that's a lot of work for one piece. I really want to strip and paint the interior this spring, but I don't know if I have the time. I fly the plane for work a couple times a week, not sure I can have it down for too long. Anyway, the new window should be here soon. Now trying to decide what to do on the interior facing side. Paint it and stuff the holes with the Selkirk insulation (how do you get that stuff in there and make it stay in one place?) or put a light-weight minimalist panel over it?

Here is the interior side with stripper applied around the edges:

no shit. big renna, you did it twice. how in the heck do you get the closed cell behind all that door framage with four small holes to deal with???????

Its called magic...


But really, just a 5 gal bucket of patience.




Now lets let Rob get back to HIS thread about his airplane... Rob, we want to see more pics! I have half a mind to hop on a commercial flight and lend a hand one of these weekends!

ccurrie wrote:Details MTV? Sorry rob derailed again.

The door latch sprags are the little gear things in the fuselage that grip the door latching pin. The sprags on the 170 doors don't grip well at all. Parked outdoors in a gusty tail wind (I know...who would ever do that? Park at a remote strip, tie down and go hike.....t-storm comes along, etc) the plane starts rocking, and those wimpy sprags can't hold the door shut. Door pops open, and BANGs against the wing strut. That's what the wing mounted door stops were put there to prevent.....mine had been removed and replaced with Door Stewards.....and THAT was a uniquely bad idea, it turns out. The Door Stewards both broke, leaving the doors to swing free.

I lucked out....my struts weren't damaged. One door was, though.

Replaced the sprags with ones from a Cessna 150 and resulted in a MUCH more robust door latching mechanism.

For those who park outdoors some (like at OSH), always fully latch the pax side door from inside when parked, and do not trust Door Stewards to stop your doors should they come open. If you have a baggage door, cam over the pax door from inside, then crawl in through the baggage door and cam over the pilot side door as well. That's the only REALLY secure way to protect the doors in a big wind.

And, yeah...I know, nobody here would think of parking outside in a breeze.

MTV

Sorry I should have been more clear, what year of 150 and what all do you need parts wise?

I put in several hours yesterday and today, more stripping prepping for paint inside. Nothing exciting enough to take pictures. It did feel good to get some work done though.

ccurrie wrote:Sorry I should have been more clear, what year of 150 and what all do you need parts wise?

Not sure what year.....came from a spare parts bin at maint shop. All the parts were the sprags, which are the gear looking things mounted in the door sill....ie: the fuselage. The stuff in the door stayed the same. We had to fab a new cover plate for the door sill...no big deal.

MTV

I got a little bit more work done tonight. I've been trying to focus on getting the interior cleaned up and ready for paint, there's a lot of very tedious work to be done. I have a HUGE respect for Greg now and all the work he has done on his 180. Its easy to sit here on BCP and look at all he's done and say "that doesn't look too bad, I can do that". Well... It's A LOT OF WORK!!!

Stripping the paint off the panel


Lots of little "nooks and crannies" to get cleaned up


I wonder why this hole on the floor is here, it didn't have a cover..... just lots of duct tape

Rob, what are you planning to do on the firewall? I to have a mess of fiberglass insulation there.

I really don't want to mess with the firewall... From the heater duct up I'll probably leave it alone. Below that will be easy enough to clean up and put in some Selkirk foam.

Very good answer. you would have to rip the living daylights out of it otherwise

Looking good Rob. Keep it up!

RE: the firewall. I went with 1/2 foam on the entire wall. Super quiet, and much quieter than fiberglass or the blankets that folks commonly use.

RE: those holes where the fuel line goes thru the floor. We cut out some nice panels and used tinnerman nuts in the factory screw holes to mount them. Keeps little stuff from dropping down. Just make sure there is enough clearance from the fuel line and you have a grommet on the edge.

My firewall had the same old insulation. I couldn't sleep at night if I let that be. I'm covering the firewall with 1/2" foam as well. It may take a little more work, but you already have things pulled apart.

I think you are doing the right thing Rob by leaving the top alone. Its not as simple as "while you are there..." To do the foam right you have to remove all the junk that goes thru the firewall. Primer lines, oil pressure lines, engine wiring, etc... Then, "while your in there..." you replace the grommets with spherical metal grommets, might as well replace all the wiring with upgraded wiring, and then do your CBs, and on and on and on... Don't ask how I know.

If it were me, I'd leave all that alone for phase two. Remember... its super easy to disassemble. Not so much going the other way.

But then again... if you want it done right, then now really is the time to do it. If you can stomach the A/C being down for 9-18 months, then it will be worth it in the end.

Amazing projects you guys. Any concerns about the foam on the firewall in the event of fire or other significant heat on the other side of same?

Mark J

marcusofcotton wrote:Amazing projects you guys. Any concerns about the foam on the firewall in the event of fire or other significant heat on the other side of same?

Mark J

Mark,

Anything that goes in the interior of an airplane has to have a burn certificate to be legal...even that pea green shag carpet

I'd be surprised if the Selkirk stuff doesn't.

MTV

Delete

Glad to see your making progress Rob.

I have had the exact same experience with every single Selkirk piece I have tried to install both on the 170 and 180. They absolutely do not fit. It takes a very steady hand and lots of trimming to get it right. Very frustrating. The flap tunnel was the worst. Took about 5 hrs to get it right. Thank God for hole finders.

I know you know... but make sure you remove small amounts at a time. Cant add!

Keep on plugging my man!