I don't know what your current engine situation is but here is one with everything on it that you could just bold on and fly for a while and then rebuild.

http://alaskaslist.com/1/posts/10_Trans ... ngine.html

That would have been an ok deal. I wonder how close the Maule mount would have come to fitting. Thanks for the heads up.

I just bought an IO360KB that needs a crank but is 1300 since factory reman so has a bunch of good parts.

I had my IO-360C off of my plane doing some maintence today and decided to weigh it as well. This weight includes, mags, harness, plugs, alternator, starter, oil filter adapter, governor, baffling, spinner backing plate, oil cooler, Rieff preheat system, 6 CHT probes, fuel lines, fuel flow transducer and air cleaner. No motor mount, no exhaust, no vac pump and no oil. Weighed with a digital scale using a load cell to hang the motor from. It weighed 335 lbs.

ak2711c wrote:I had my IO-360C off of my plane doing some maintence today and decided to weigh it as well. This weight includes, mags, harness, plugs, alternator, starter, oil filter adapter, governor, baffling, spinner backing plate, oil cooler, Rieff preheat system, 6 CHT probes, fuel lines, fuel flow transducer and air cleaner. No motor mount, no exhaust, no vac pump and no oil. Weighed with a digital scale using a load cell to hang the motor from. It weighed 335 lbs.

Awesome! Thanks for the data point.

Can someone with an IO360 measure the distance from the back of the crank flange to the front of the case? I forgot to take that measurement before I tore my engine apart and I need it to build the engine mount.

From the back of the crank flange to the front of the engine case is 1 1/8"

Big thanks!

Visual difference between phase 1 case and phase 3 case. Note the humps over each bolt along the top of the case.

Phase 1:


Phase 3 (Often called "heavy case" or "humpback case"):

I've been searching for a way to install a rear mounted belt driven alternator on my IO360 and came across this statement from a guy on the skymaster forum:

"I have a 337 form some where around here that was done where we put a 100 amp alternator on the fwd engine... we went to the junk yard and got a accessory drive unit that came off a 470 or 520 that had the belt drive pully and gear on it... its the same one that they use on the 360 to... so it went right back in... it adds a gear to the box and we had to relocate the vacuum pump to the other side... like it is now... on the later ones.. but, it all went in and then we took the regular 38 amp alternator out and plated over the hole that it had down on the bottom..."

I can't figure out what he is talking about. Anyone have any ideas? The starter adapter for the IO360 is very different than that on the 470 or 520 so that can't be it.

This results in a belt pulley being driven right off the accessory case?

I know one of the criticisms of vac drive standby alternators is their low RPM relative to a pulley drive, or at least that's how I'm understanding the problem. It too bad there isn't a way to gear that up without using a belt though.

Yes. Something like the system on Cessna 180.

My understanding of the vac drive alternators is the same, they need some engine rpm to produce much charge. I actually want my alternator to be belt driven thus my hunt for a solution.

whee wrote:...I can't figure out what he is talking about. Anyone have any ideas? The starter adapter for the IO360 is very different than that on the 470 or 520 so that can't be it.

I think that may be exactly what he's talking about.
The 90 degree starter adapter on an O-300D (and the IO-360, I think) mounts the vacuum pump on the aft side.
The 470 starter adapter is similar except the aft side has a pulley which drives the generator.
I believe the engine section of my early Cessna 100 Series service manual says exactly that.

Problem is the O470 adapter doesn't fit an IO360. The O300 uses the same adapter as the 360. So I can't figure out what parts he put together to get a pulley on the back of a IO360 adapter.

I'm sure it's not listed in the applictions, but are you sure that a 470 starter won't fit your IO-360?
From your quote, it sure sounds like that's what the mixmaster guy did.
Have you physically tried it?

I haven't physically tried it but I know the mounting bolt pattern is different. Also, I asked Niagara if the guts from one could be put in the other and they said no.

Whee,

They make a stater adapter that drives a pulley for an alternator and all of the brackets for the tcm io-360. TCM part number for the starter adapter assembly: 653074A39. Do not know if this link will work: http://www.tcmlink.com/Webgrph/37_126.gif. It is a pic of the assembly.

Probably as rare as hens teeth and quite expensive.

I have always thought the direct drive made more sense. Why add brackets and pulleys and belts to the system? Never had a significant problem with my direct drive alternator.

Chet

whee wrote:I've been searching for a way to install a rear mounted belt driven alternator on my IO360
....

As I recall, the accessory case of an IO360 is (kinda) like that of an O300D.
90 degree starter adapter, gear-driven alternator.
What's wrong with the standard alternator set-up?

chetharris wrote:Whee,

They make a stater adapter that drives a pulley for an alternator and all of the brackets for the tcm io-360. TCM part number for the starter adapter assembly: 653074A39. Do not know if this link will work: http://www.tcmlink.com/Webgrph/37_126.gif. It is a pic of the assembly.

Probably as rare as hens teeth and quite expensive.

I have always thought the direct drive made more sense. Why add brackets and pulleys and belts to the system? Never had a significant problem with my direct drive alternator.

Chet

Yeah, I talked to Continental about that adapter about a year ago. Has a built in vacuum pump, is rare and cost ~$7500 + core. Pretty much eliminated it at a possibility.

hotrod180 wrote:As I recall, the accessory case of an IO360 is (kinda) like that of an O300D.
90 degree starter adapter, gear-driven alternator.
What's wrong with the standard alternator set-up?

Two answer this and Chet's comment about the original gear driven alternator. The horror stories of the TCM gear driven alternators breaking a shaft and taking out the engine scared me, then the price of a replacement alt along with maybe having to replace the drive coupling. Yes, the shaft failures aren't common but I'm sure it would happen to me...its just my luck. Belt driven alternators are less expensive, are mechanical isolated from the engine and won't shed parts inside the engine if things fail.

chetharris wrote:I have always thought the direct drive made more sense. Why add brackets and pulleys and belts to the system?

I have to admit, the belt driven alternator and the external flywheel/ring gear are 2 of the advantages to a Lycoming in my opinion. Simple, and keeps the accessory case less prone to cascading failure and contamination with explodered gear chunks.

Zzz wrote: I have to admit, the belt driven alternator and the external flywheel/ring gear are 2 of the advantages to a Lycoming in my opinion. Simple, and keeps the accessory case less prone to cascading failure and contamination with explodered gear chunks.

I agree, plus they seem don't seem to have as many problems with the valve guides needing attention partway through the life of the engine. But they seem to have more problems with corrosion at the camshaft & followers. So TCM vs Lyc is sort of 6 of one, half dozen of the other.

Whee, why not splice a Lyc starter ring & alternator drive pulley onto the front of that IO-360?

I don't know what your definition of Frankenstein is but my engine will be built with yellow tagged/serviceable parts. Cobbling something together isn't what I'm looking for.

There are prop flange drive sheaves available for TCM engines but they are expensive and I don't have room up front for that stuff.