My friend just purchased this beautiful 1955 170B. It has a stock O300 engine and really no mods whatsoever. I know some will say add an O360 but the engine is 600 SMOH and the plane is light - 1322 lbs on scales. It flies hand free and is just a pleasure to fly. Here is what I think she needs right of the start:

1. BAS 4 point shoulder harness
2. BAS pull handles
3. Rosen Visors
4. Door stewards.

I really like how light this airplane is and don't know what else it needs but curious if the 170 aficionados would recommend a sportsman cuff/VGs. I know it was a game changer in my 180 but I really like how light this plane is and it already lands ridiculously short.

Also curious what is the best performing prop for the O300. Looking into the 8042.

Visors and door stewards? I guess we have different priorities!!!!

Great start on # 1 and # 2, I would put 3 and 4 way down on the list.

This is a mod that is worth ever penny! I had them in every Cessna I owned.

https://www.sportys.com/precise-flow-air-vent-kit.html


Kurt

StillLearning wrote:Visors and door stewards? I guess we have different priorities!!!!

Well say something more than this - like what are your priorities ? BAS Shoulder harness is a safety item. BAS handles make it easy to park. Rosen Visors keep it cool in the cabin. And the door stewards prevent the doors from blowing off when it is windy. But I am open to your suggestions. All of these items are relatively cheap and easy to install. So if you know a lot about the 170 speak up. This is why I posted.



Josh

Sorry to offend.

Seems like the thing to do here lately.

Sportsman STOL is a good start.

+1 on the BAS belts and handles. I like my Rosen visors and door stewards, but not enough to call them "must-have".

I would say yes on the Sportsman, but I put mine on at the same time as an IO-360, so can't offer a review when paired with the O-300.

Given that it already lands "ridiculously short", maybe she wants shorter T/O to go with that? If so, the 8042 gives noticeable improvements in T/O and climb performance over the 7653. It's been too long since I ran that combo to recall numbers, but I remember being very pleased with the before/ after. That was with a stock wing at the time, and takeoffs from sea level to around 7,000' MSL, at up to GW.

Have a look at the tail spring. 500 hours is a recommended interval for replacement- consider upgrading to the L-19 (Birddog) leaf spring which is more robust. (involves removing the thinnest leaf to achieve fit on the 170.)

Some other ideas:
Scott 3200 TW
Double-puck brakes
Steel axles
LED lighting
Preheat kit
Steve's gascolator, if STC'd
Atlee fueling steps and handles
Spin-on oil filter kit
Install notch for Flaps 10, if not already present

Plenty more options exist. (I'm hunting unsuccessfully for a lengthy list I've posted to BCP previously.) More info about her intended mission would help keep it relevant.

Cheers,

-DP

p.s.- While getting attuned to this plane, keep an eye on the screws in the forward tips of the elevators, which have been known to loosen and cause interference with the adjacent edge of the horizontal.

1. BAS 4 point shoulder harness
2. BAS pull handles
3. Rosen Visors
4. Door stewards.

Kind of depends on the mission those first 4 are a must IMHO.
If no mission to fly off airport or very short strips, stock wing and tires , with a light airplane allows you to land very slow.
If Off airport is part of the mission the Sportsman STOL is really good, VGs also helped in my 170B, those will allow it to land even slower.
Have a look at the tail springs, if bent or worn, replace them, I have a new set for sale (installed the T3 shock instead)

Looks like a very nice 170B.

I prefer a tail wheel tow bar to the BAS handles. I can’t bear the thought of punching big holes in the skins.

https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/p ... bars18.php

Another option is a short strap you can snap to the tail wheel tie down to drag it around. I just kick the tail wheel sideways with my foot until in unlocks and then it swings easy on a rope or strap.

BAS harness and tail pull handles. First and foremost. The good thing about handles is when people want to help, you say, “Pull that handle out and use it”. Otherwise, they’ll push/pull wherever.

Sportsman STOL kit is next on my list, for a lot of reasons.

VGs in my experience are minimally useful. Keep the wing smooth. People put them on because they’re “relatively cheap”, then they HAVE to say they work. They DO work, a tiny bit, but not worth the $$ or hassle.

Buy an L-19 main leaf for tailwheel from Univair. Replace your main leaf with that leaf, remove the shortest stock leaf, and install. The L-19 leaf is thicker, so requires removing one leaf to fit the mount. Those stock main leaves break…..I’ve seen a number.

While you have the tailwheel off, have a mechanic who knows tailwheels rebuild it, and show you how it works. Many aren’t set up right and don’t steer well. While you’re at that, replace the standard steering arm, which is already bent, more than likely, with a “Bent steering arm” from Airframes Alaska, in Scotts part number: 3214 T steering arm. BTW-Do NOT buy ANY tailwheel components made by Scott. It’s now owned by a French company, and they make junk. All Scott tailwheel parts are pma’d by Airframes Alaska, who makes great stuff.

I’d verify that your axles are either hollow steel (best) or solid aluminum. If theyre hollow aluminum, call Airframes Alaska and buy a new set of steel axles. Don’t even think about running hollow aluminum axles for long.

If you’re going to be boondocking much, steps and handles are a must have, for fueling from cans/bags. That’s pretty far down the list, but if you’ll be fueling in the bush….ladders are scarce.

82/40 prop IF you feel you need the t/o performance. You’ll lose some cruise speed.

When I bought my 170, the air vents were duct taped shut. It was winter, no biggee. Spring came, I removed the tape to find the vents were actually in good shape. Cleaned them up, and re installed. First takeoff, the vent tubes came shooting out of their mounts. Kinda decided for me I needed new air vents.

All of those are functionally necessary mods, in my mind EXCEPT the Sportsman cuff. The Sportsman, however, is just the best thing you can do to a Cessna wing, period.

MTV

I have a 170A and did the same 4 mods you mentioned. All are great. I also replaced tailwheel springs (mine were bent).

I would recommend installing the Secondary Seat Stop Kit from Cessna. Parts for the pilot seat are still free. You have to pay for them, but once your A&P fills out your airframe logbook you can send in a copy of it and get reimbursed for the part costs. Google SEB07-5R06 and SK210-174B. The credit expires at the end of 2023.

I have also added some new avionics. But before I did that I completely removed and replaced the old wiring which was horrible. 70 years of mods and inattention can be dangerous. I also switched to circuit breakers and LED lights (to reduce the load on my small generator).

I wasn't the one to add it, but my O-300 has the Real Gasket pushrod tubes. I'd recommend them if you have any oil leaks.

Doug

Obviously harnesses and tail pull handle, but after that my top three would be 80x42, Sportsman and then at least one folding rear seat.

But fly the plane a whole lot too, they are great planes bone stock. Little advantage to wing mods if you are not flying the plane well.

If that were mine the first I’d do

BAS reel belts

LED all the lights,
*also check the adjustment for the landing and taxi if they are adjustable ones, most I’ve seen through out the years got a good bit off

Auto fuel STC

Burn gas -> get instruction from worthy CFIs, learn and have fun!

Oh and scan ALL the logs and documents into PDFs for backup and keep them in foreflight

The Auto Gas STC and a fuel tank/pump for the truck/trailer is one of the first investments I made. I have saved 30,000 dollars by blending my fuel over the past 16 years. Tank and pump paid for itself in the firs 5 months. Seat belt, Helmet, Spin training, would be my first recommendation, followed by the other stuff mentioned. The most notable mod would be a Sportsman cuff as mike said. I would list it as a safety mod because it really does help land slower. DENNY

Rosens and Door Stewards are great mods, relatively cheap, quick installs, and both Oregon companies.

If you're on a morning flight with an eastbound heading, Rosens really makes it a more pleasurable flight.

I'd say door stewards if the original door retainers aren't present or don't work well.

BAS harnesses for sure.

Unless she's really going boonie crashing, I'd do those few mods and just fly it. Don't really need the Sportsman for valley pleasure flying and the local grass strips. The stock prop makes XC more tolerable.

I had a sportsman stol kit and 8042 on my B model and it was a great combo.

Steel axles are made by Airforms. I don't think Alaska Bushwheel makes them or sells them. You can get them direct from airforms or from McFarlane. They have titanium too, if you want to start trading dollars for pounds! haha

These are great planes. I'd echo the thoughts about resisting mods until you really are flying what you have. It's hard to do but good medicine.

I am coming up on my first annual for my '55 180. I've only fixed what broke in the last year and I really want to see where I'm at with my annual before jumping into the deep end of the pool.

I keep looking at Rosens and those $450 air vents and I just don't see why everyone loves them so much. Rebuild your visors, use sunglasses and the static clng cheapo version and put in new o rings in your vents and smooth out the bumps and put more mogas through the go-handle.

mtv wrote:
I’d verify that your axles are either hollow steel (best) or solid aluminum. If theyre hollow aluminum, call Airframes Alaska and buy a new set of steel axles. Don’t even think about running hollow aluminum axles for long.

soyAnarchisto wrote:Steel axles are made by Airforms. I don't think Alaska Bushwheel makes them or sells them. You can get them direct from airforms or from McFarlane. They have titanium too, if you want to start trading dollars for pounds! haha

These are great planes. I'd echo the thoughts about resisting mods until you really are flying what you have. It's hard to do but good medicine.

I am coming up on my first annual for my '55 180. I've only fixed what broke in the last year and I really want to see where I'm at with my annual before jumping into the deep end of the pool.

I keep looking at Rosens and those $450 air vents and I just don't see why everyone loves them so much. Rebuild your visors, use sunglasses and the static clng cheapo version and put in new o rings in your vents and smooth out the bumps and put more mogas through the go-handle.

mtv wrote:
I’d verify that your axles are either hollow steel (best) or solid aluminum. If theyre hollow aluminum, call Airframes Alaska and buy a new set of steel axles. Don’t even think about running hollow aluminum axles for long.

He's right, I believe.....not sure Airframes sells axles, though they are a distributor for McFarlane.

MTV

I’ve undertaken many of the mods/upgrades that have been mention and value them all. However assuming available “funding” the 170B screams for an 0-360. If I’d known five years ago what I know now I would have started with it and followed along later with all the other ones.

Appreciate all of the great feedback so far. My friend (also student) since I am her CFI is a solid stick with about 650 TT Instrument/commercial ratings. She is eventually going to work on her CFI. Her mission will be first to get her tailwheel endorsement and learn how to fly tailwheels. She used to own a 182 and has done some Idaho/Montana backcountry flying. She did some great training in the early summer with Pete Nelson. She will likely do mostly non windy long wide runways until she works her way up to flying harder strips. Her typical mission will be her, another person, and some camping gear.

The airplane has an Auto fuel STC although finding it in Portland is not so easy. She also has double puck Cleveland brakes, and a spin on oil filter. I agree about the tail assembly and replacing the leaf springs. I trained someone with that assembly on a C172 Bolen TW conversion and it broke after a semi-hard landing. On inspection there were signs of prior wear that lead to the incident. The landing in my opinion was not that hard to warrant the break. After reading this thread I have recommended she look into having the L-19 (Birddog) mod and the rebuilding the steering arm/assembly. Just seems like every tailwheel airplane's achilles heel is in the tail.

Her 170 flies great stock but it is good to know that the Sportsman cuff enhances an already great wing. I just love how light this airplane is. It had the same owner for 33 years and was reskinned with Zinc Chromate in 1993. It wasn't ground looped to my knowledge. Owner reported it sat for years out of annual before he bought it. It had corrosion before it was reskinned. Logs were thorough and complete going all the way back to 1955. I have some time flying C170s, and tailwheel converted C172/C175s. This plane seems to be the perfect training airplane. You start adding up costs for all of the best mods and it makes sense why some of these 170s are advertised for over 200K. The O-360 engine being a game changer. I have flown one with this mod and it seemed like a different airplane. I am curious how much weight the 360 adds. You start pilling on lots of mods and your light thin waif model turns into the plus size package really fast. I think for now it is going to stay with the stock engine and wing with the mission to be lightly loaded and early morning cold air flying if she ventures out to Idaho or Montana but all of the suggestions are on the table. Just not so sure about the $$$



Josh