Lost almost 10 pounds having my rear seat redone a few months ago as well.


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Going back to my thoughts of less gas rather than lightening seats, I notice that the best weight savings listed is 4.1 lbs. per seat--less than 1 1/2 gallons of gas for two. If your seats need replacing/repairing/recovering anyway, OK. But if they're OK, just to save the equivalent of 9 minutes of fuel? Nah, not worth it.

I did have my pilot side seat rebuilt by Oregon Aero--weighs the same (other than lightening my wallet significantly), but it's so very much more comfortable. It was the typical Cessna seat, guaranteed to make you uncomfortable in a couple of hours. But with 3 variations of memory foam now, I've flown for 8 flight hours (3 legs) several times with no discomfort. The only thing about memory foam is that when it's cold, it's hard as a rock. By the time I taxi out and do the run-up, though, my butt has warmed it enough that it has become pliable enough to conform to me.

Cary

Cary wrote:Going back to my thoughts of less gas rather than lightening seats, I notice that the best weight savings listed is 4.1 lbs. per seat--less than 1 1/2 gallons of gas for two. If your seats need replacing/repairing/recovering anyway, OK. But if they're OK, just to save the equivalent of 9 minutes of fuel? Nah, not worth it.
Cary

It all adds up. All the weight removal I did on my 170 took off 60lbs from the empty weight. That translates into better takeoff and climb performance or 60 more pounds of stuff I could legally take with me before I hit gross weight.

robw56 wrote:

Cary wrote:Going back to my thoughts of less gas rather than lightening seats, I notice that the best weight savings listed is 4.1 lbs. per seat--less than 1 1/2 gallons of gas for two. If your seats need replacing/repairing/recovering anyway, OK. But if they're OK, just to save the equivalent of 9 minutes of fuel? Nah, not worth it.
Cary

It all adds up. All the weight removal I did on my 170 took off 60lbs from the empty weight. That translates into better takeoff and climb performance or 60 more pounds of stuff I could legally take with me before I hit gross weight.

Agreed. I’m looking for weight savings so I can carry more fuel.

Biggest bang for the buck would be going from a lead acid to an Oddyse or an Earth-X by far.

Then light weight starter and alternator.

Given that all unused wires, radios, brackets and antennas have already been removed.
Interior panels, floor carpet and other suck cabin comforts can save a few pounds but the plane is pretty bare without putting something back in.

titanium landing gear...

Composite propeller...

Past that, I think you’d need to get a vacuum bag kit and some carbon fiber to make a big difference. (spinner, cowling, doors, wing tips, inspection plates...) but carbon fiber presents its own problems in contact with aluminum.

I've been involved with a bunch of seat restos now and the savings is all about the same as AK Greg mentioned. Going from stock springs/padding/vinyl to nylon blatters (as Ron Matta calls them) will save you 5lbs per seat. And that is with leather. I have done a bunch of artwork for these seats which I have given to Ron for anyone to use. Its pretty flattering to see these designs out there, so if the gestalt resonates, feel free...

Just my .02, but there is NO way I would approach a seat refresh w/out tossing the springs in the garbage.

RE: orig seats. I like the look of the round back, but the square backs are more comfy. There are 3 versions of the square back. Non, and two articulating. the non articulating square backs are just every so slightly heavier than the round backs - not worth worrying about if you want comfort.

If you want articulating, go with the mid year versions as the later articulating are just too freaking heavy.

Good luck!

88Echo,

Who did you use to redo your back seat? Some one local here in Anc or did you send it out? Thanks

Bigrenna wrote:I've been involved with a bunch of seat restos now and the savings is all about the same as AK Greg mentioned. Going from stock springs/padding/vinyl to nylon blatters (as Ron Matta calls them) will save you 5lbs per seat. And that is with leather. I have done a bunch of artwork for these seats which I have given to Ron for anyone to use. Its pretty flattering to see these designs out there, so if the gestalt resonates, feel free...

Just my .02, but there is NO way I would approach a seat refresh w/out tossing the springs in the garbage.

RE: orig seats. I like the look of the round back, but the square backs are more comfy. There are 3 versions of the square back. Non, and two articulating. the non articulating square backs are just every so slightly heavier than the round backs - not worth worrying about if you want comfort.

If you want articulating, go with the mid year versions as the later articulating are just too freaking heavy.

Good luck!

Hey Greg, what do you mean when you call them bladders? Do they just slip onto the frame? Could he do them up without the seat frames?

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A1Skinner wrote:

Bigrenna wrote:what do you mean when you call them bladders? Do they just slip onto the frame? Could he do them up without the seat frames?

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I was saying that parenthetically because it's the word Ron always uses. "Blatters." To answer your question, no, you cant just slip em on. He uses a nylon, glues it around the seat frames, and then shrinks it. It's not however ceconite. Same idea though...

Ok. Interesting. Thanks for filling me in. Looking at options for my 206 seats.

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A1Skinner wrote:Ok. Interesting. Thanks for filling me in. Looking at options for my 206 seats.

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Regardless of the upholsterer you use, I would break em down completely yourself and then have them powdercoated locally. Way cheaper than having that part done by a seat guy. Also, they typically paint the sub frames assembled, which is a bit booty... LOL

Bigrenna wrote:

A1Skinner wrote:Ok. Interesting. Thanks for filling me in. Looking at options for my 206 seats.

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Regardless of the upholsterer you use, I would break em down completely yourself and then have them powdercoated locally. Way cheaper than having that part done by a seat guy. Also, they typically paint the sub frames assembled, which is a bit booty... LOL

Ya for sure. I planned in pulling them all apart and replacing all the roll pins and such, then pulling the springs off and going the ceconite route.

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I saved 22lbs by redoing my seats. I took out all the springs and old heavy foam and bought a leather kit and did it myself. Took me about a day is all.

Here's a before:



Here's the after:







I'm pretty happy!

Jim

jaudette wrote:I saved 22lbs by redoing my seats. I took out all the springs and old heavy foam and bought a leather kit and did it myself. Took me about a day is all.

I'm pretty happy!

Jim

Looks great!!

jaudette wrote:I saved 22lbs by redoing my seats. I took out all the springs and old heavy foam and bought a leather kit and did it myself. Took me about a day is all.

Airtex? Or something else?

Inquiring minds would like to know, you sourced the leather kit from...???

delete

Jim

The seats and the floor are great looking. Where did you find the floor material?

Thanks,
Ron

The seats were from http://www.sportaircraftseats.com/sport ... /Home.html and the floor material came from American aircraft products. I riveted the aluminum diamond plate heel kick's to the floor material. It looks clean and is easy to keep that way!

Jim

I see a full interior overhaul coming Mapleflt. It starts with just doing the seats for now, and evolves into a full blown interior, panel, wiring, radios, etc job before it gets pushed out of the hangar. Ask me how I know lol.

When I did my interior last year, it was more for appearance than weight savings, but I did shed a little. I have the older rounded back, foldable but non-adjustable seats in my 180, which I assume are similar if not identical to yours. There are about light as they come, and are actually quite comfortable now with the modern foam installed.