Hey guys,

My mechanic is installing a 206 fork/block onto my standard strut tube. Has anyone here been involved in an installation like this, and can you provide an explanation or pictures of the final product?

The confusion lies with the fact that there are two bolt holes in my strut tube, and which one the block is supposed to be bolted to and if the tube needs to be trimmed or not.

Thanks

Yes. I trimmed it so the distance from the base to the top of the tube remained the same. I have an E model, so that was a significant chunk. Other models would not require as much trimmed off.

I used a band saw followed by a belt sander and a file, and then some crocus cloth. I can get you pics, but they'll be unremarkable I'm sure.

Thank you, mines an F model. It’s in the shop right now and I’m trying to help my mechanic. Pics would be awesome!

Did you use either of the two existing bolt holes?

So.... this is what I received back today when I picked up my plane.

I'm pretty sure this isn't right.

I know for sure that the linkage collar shouldn't be there, and the linkage should be attached to the fork mounting block... but does the fork need to also move up the the bolt hole that the collar is currently secured to?

My plane is very tail low on the ground. I'm not sure I want to even fly it like this.

I could sure use some help on this....

That doesn’t look right to me either. I have a Cessna 310 fork that was installed on my 1958 182 by Doug at Dew Aviation in McCall. Here’s a photo. You’ll have to expand it to see the detail but the bottom of the scissor is attached to the block on top of the fork.

Mine is attached to the block as well b


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Looks super not right . Almost looks like it’s upside down and inside out .. hmmm . I see your in Gooding . Go over to the duster on the field , He’s Low Flying G3 on here I believe . He’s a friend of mine . Ask for George . See what he thinks , solid source of info over in Duster land .

I see the problem. The old standard fork uses the collar. The new HD unit has its own set of scissors...the lower part attaches to the block, the upper part is the same as the old one.

I don't think that is a problem though.To be exact, search for a compatible lower link if you want to go to the block. The collar limits travel a bit, and with the larger tire, the extra travel can be nice. I had a lower fork fracture one year in the Idaho BC and was able to readily find a few on Ebay at good prices readily.

Thanks guys,

It sounds like my mechanic can pull it back into the shop next week. I'm going to ask him to move the block up to the hole that the collar is now attached to, attach the linkage to the HD fork block, and trim the bottom of the tube to wherever it then protrudes from the bottom of the block.

Basically, the top of the HD fork block will be about where the top of that original collar is now.

Here's a crappy sketch:

CParker wrote:Thanks guys,

It sounds like my mechanic can pull it back into the shop next week. I'm going to ask him to move the block up to the hole that the collar is now attached to, attach the linkage to the HD fork block, and trim the bottom of the tube to wherever it then protrudes from the bottom of the block.

Basically, the top of the HD fork block will be about where the top of that original collar is now.

Here's a crappy sketch:

I am pretty sure that will lower the nose by the distance between the holes. Fly it up to Mccall avaition. They have much more experience at this

Your sketch is exactly what should have been done. I would just do it myself. Or your mechanic should be doing this for free - his screw up totally, Pretty easy. Hardest part is finding a metal band saw, or carefully zip disc it.

This was done on my 1956 182 about 25 years ago. Was done with a field approval. Never have had any problem

A big part of the problem is the lower gear legs on the F model. Here is the stance as it sits, the tail is just too low, I'm afraid of wheelbarrowing.

CParker wrote:A big part of the problem is the lower gear legs on the F model. Here is the stance as it sits, the tail is just too low, I'm afraid of wheelbarrowing.

Have you put on the 800's on the mains yet. If not you should think of doing first to see how it stands. Ounce you cut off the end of strut tube you cannot put it back on

qmdv wrote:

CParker wrote:A big part of the problem is the lower gear legs on the F model. Here is the stance as it sits, the tail is just too low, I'm afraid of wheelbarrowing.

Have you put on the 800's on the mains yet. If not you should think of doing first to see how it stands. Ounce you cut off the end of strut tube you cannot put it back on

Yep that's as it sits with 800's on the mains and 600 on the nose.

Hey guys, update, my mechanic move it to the upper bolt hole and trimmed the tube. Linkage is now secured to the block and the collar is gone. Looks great!

Thanks

8.50’s would have had it looking right without cutting anymore off..

CParker wrote:Hey guys, update, my mechanic move it to the upper bolt hole and trimmed the tube. Linkage is now secured to the block and the collar is gone. Lookg great!

Thanks

But I looked at the parts book and it shows the collar as part of original equipment with the HD fork. The diagram for the standard fork and the HD fork show the same part number for the tube. So if you cut the tube and toss the collar would you then have to gt a field approval for that.

qmdv wrote: So if you cut the tube and toss the collar would you then have to gt a field approval for that.

Don’t listen to this. It’s done and your mechanic approves, go fly.

asa wrote:

qmdv wrote: So if you cut the tube and toss the collar would you then have to gt a field approval for that.

Don’t listen to this. It’s done and your mechanic approves, go fly.

Mostly good with this. Just have a great time