Rob wrote:

I liked your story!

My buddy had some of those on our last caribou hunt and I concur, they worked well.

CamTom12 wrote:

Rob wrote:

I liked your story!

My buddy had some of those on our last caribou hunt and I concur, they worked well.

Yes and Yes!!
-DP

For MTX and Oregon 180 and anyone else carrying the Doug Ritter RSK, do you have the full sized knife or the mini version? Full size is a 3.5" blade, mini is 3.0". If if is the full size knife do you ever find yourself wishing you'd gotten the smaller size> I'm considering one but don't want one that feels "clunky" in the hand. That said I have a Spyderco Gayle Bradley that's a handful but not too big.

Thanks.

Frank

Mine is the full sized one. I've owned it for 8 years or more and never wished for the smaller one. Great knife.

Ordered a BK9 as a result of this thread and it was waiting for me when I got to the US Tuesday (along with some swank-ass amsteel tie-downs, more on that when I get back to Mexico and try them out). This knife is awesome. I had to laugh because I remember ordering it and one of the commenters on Amazon said "honestly, the only drawback to this knife is an inability to stop putting on an aussie accent and declaring "now that's a knife" whenever I take it out". I unsheathed it for the first time and that was 100% the line that went through my head.

Out of the box it's super sharp too, so that's nice. Literally shaving sharp (though probably not a great personal groomer). Ordered a strop and a stone to take back with me too.

These are the ENZO Elver style offerings from Thompson.


The one with the Curley Birch scales is an O1 Carbon blade with the Scandi grind.

The one with the green micarta is a D2 with a flat grind.

I would prefer the micarta scales but with the Scandi grind. I don't know a thing about flat grind from shinola.

Here's a link to the page.
http://www.thompsonsknives.com/enzoelverknife.html

Mister701 wrote:These are the ENZO Elver style offerings from Thompson.


The one with the Curley Birch scales is an O1 Carbon blade with the Scandi grind.

The one with the green micarta is a D2 with a flat grind.

I would prefer the micarta scales but with the Scandi grind. I don't know a thing about flat grind from shinola.

Here's a link to the page.
http://www.thompsonsknives.com/enzoelverknife.html

There are a few other places that sell Enzo knives...google it if you haven't already.

The Elver is pretty short...fine if that's what you want, but it's shorter than the Trapper, which I find to be a little short itself.

Micarta scales are heavy...heavier than wood for sure. They're also slippery if you don't sand them down a bit and take the shine off. A blade in O1 can't be stored wet anyway, so I don't see a lot of benefit in the micarta scales, unless you just like the look.

Scandi ground blades cut wood better than any other grind (in my opinion), but are less useful for some other chores, food prep among them. The wedge shape of the grind will send pieces of carrot or potato across the room with each cut. A flat ground blade will slice though tubers and what-not with less wedging and resistance. I greatly prefer scandi grinds, but that's probably because I use a knife to cut wood more than anything else.

Regardless of the grind, I'd stay away from D2 steel. I've got a couple knives in D2, including one made by Dozier, the Guru of D2, and I can't stand the steel. It just never gets the kind of edge I want. Obviously other people feel differently (lots of them, in fact), but I've got nothing good to say about it.

Hammer,

Just re-reding the knife thread. Did you kayak or raft the Grand Canyon? Kayaking in Nepal, steep whitewater? Sorry for the thread hijack but curious.

Happy Holidays.

Frank

Just finished working my way thru this thread. Those are some nice knives.

I currently carry a Leatherman Rebar when I'm flying,and a swiss army knife knockoff in my pocket for everyday carry. The cheap knockoff works for me because I don't have to worry when prying or scraping with it and I can put an edge on with a file or grinder.

I'm looking for a good sheath knife with a nonwood handle,any suggestions?
I was looking this http://ontarioknife.com/fixed-blades/ranger-tfi-detail what do you guys think?

fshaw wrote:Hammer,

Just re-reding the knife thread. Did you kayak or raft the Grand Canyon? Kayaking in Nepal, steep whitewater? Sorry for the thread hijack but curious.

Happy Holidays.

Frank

Kayaked the Grand Canyon. Nepal whitewater is steep, huge, or both. Some of the runs made the Grand Canyon look like creek boating.

MountainFlyerN22 wrote: The cheap knockoff works for me because I don't have to worry when prying or scraping with it and I can put an edge on with a file or grinder.

If you're trying to hurt me, you've succeeded...

Hammer wrote:If you're trying to hurt me, you've succeeded...

That was not my intention.....
I don't see using a good knife when you use it for almost anything but cutting,and I hate tape residue making the blade all sticky.

In the woods I use a Buck 110,119 or a big Winchester sheath knife I found in the woods once.

I have tried making knifes too...

Made from scraps laying around the garage.Handle is a piece of radiator hose.Buck 110 in there for size.

Still need some more time on the sharpening stone.

Also I was wondering if you have particular strop you like?

MountainFlyerN22 wrote:

Hammer wrote:If you're trying to hurt me, you've succeeded...

That was not my intention.....
I don't see using a good knife when you use it for almost anything but cutting,and I hate tape residue making the blade all sticky.

In the woods I use a Buck 110,119 or a big Winchester sheath knife I found in the woods once.

I have tried making knifes too...

Made from scraps laying around the garage.Handle is a piece of radiator hose.Buck 110 in there for size.

Still need some more time on the sharpening stone.

Also I was wondering if you have particular strop you like?

Sorry but I'm calling BS. That is clearly a prison shiv made by the inmates of a Guatemalan insane asylum. I know this... I've seen them before.

Just out of curiosity, what exactly were you planning to strop?

Hammer wrote:

MountainFlyerN22 wrote:

Hammer wrote:If you're trying to hurt me, you've succeeded...

That was not my intention.....
I don't see using a good knife when you use it for almost anything but cutting,and I hate tape residue making the blade all sticky.

In the woods I use a Buck 110,119 or a big Winchester sheath knife I found in the woods once.

I have tried making knifes too...

Made from scraps laying around the garage.Handle is a piece of radiator hose.Buck 110 in there for size.

Still need some more time on the sharpening stone.

Also I was wondering if you have particular strop you like?

Sorry but I'm calling BS. That is clearly a prison shiv made by the inmates of a Guatemalan insane asylum. I know this... I've seen them before.

Just out of curiosity, what exactly were you planning to strop?

LOL

So that's who owned this house before me,he must have left the scraps in the garage.


Mainly thinking of stropping my knives,not sure what many of the blade's steel is.
Thinking it over my question,I think I'll try asking it again since I was wasn't sure what I was asking.

I've heard of stropping to sharpen a knife after the stone,after reading your posts I decided to try it.
Any advice or particulars you would give? Any good strop suggestion?

Edit: just reread this.https://www.backcountrypilot.org/forum/knives-18037?start=60#p252718

Ok, here's my Sweeney Todd rig. Amateurs stand back, you might get hurt!

Mountain flyer- this is the basics, plus a little chromium oxide paste on the felt.

-DP

Hammer,

Who made the blade of the first puukko style knife shown on page 2 where you discuss your Fallkniven? Beautiful knife. I assume you made it.

Thanks.

Frank

fshaw wrote:Hammer,

Who made the blade of the first puukko style knife shown on page 2 where you discuss your Fallkniven? Beautiful knife. I assume you made it.

Thanks.

Frank

Frank,
That's a Lauri of Finland PT blade. I just put the handle on the blade. Thompson's Scandinavian Knives sometimes has them in stock. It's a great blade...about RC52 at the spine and RC63 at the edge because of the progressive temper.

So I just started experimenting with a "strop" aka a leather belt. I read about using a paste to speed up the process where do you guys get the stuff? So far I got a knife almost sharp enough to shave my face with but took awhile.

cstolaircraft wrote:So I just started experimenting with a "strop" aka a leather belt. I read about using a paste to speed up the process where do you guys get the stuff? So far I got a knife almost sharp enough to shave my face with but took awhile.

Search Amazon for chromium oxide paste (or crayons). Traditionally that goes on a felt or canvas strop, not your leather one. When you turn the blade over to run the other side down the strop, be sure to roll it on the spine, and not on the edge. There's a few good videos out there if you google around.
-DP

Check Japan Woodworker for abrasives. Aluminum oxide powder cuts much faster than any paste-based abrasive crayon and leaves a fantastic edge on most steels. If JW doesn't cary it anymore, search for this stuff here: http://www.woodisgoodco.com/strops.htm Aluminum Oxide Powder.

A little goes a long ways. That little bottle should last a couple years at least. Great stuff...I strop regularly with it and only use a stone a couple times a year, even with regular carving of hard woods.