

hotrod180 wrote:I got a quote last summer for a 2-blade for my C180, and it was about $13K plus crating & shipping.
I'm sure they're the right stuff but that's above my pay grade.
I ended up buying a run-out 88" C201 Mac and having it OH'd (including being modified to the newer style oil-filled hub), for a total investment of about $5300-- so about 40% of the cost of a new MT & performs great.

mtv wrote:The "critiques" you'll sometimes hear of the MT props almost without fail come from people who've never actually operated an MT prop, nor do they have any direct experience observing MT props in the real world. It's always "I have a buddy who" or "I heard that a guy in Upper Bumfuck had a prop delaminate", etc. It's pretty hard to actually find someone who's had a bad experience with MT props. I'm sure they are out there, but as others have noted, their customer support is excellent. Flight Resource is owned by two real gentlemen, one of whom posts on this forum occasionally...both of these guys, John and Larry are class acts, and will stand behind the propellers 100 %.
So, let's look at some of the alleged "beefs":
"Oh, wow, if you get a prop strike, those props will splinter and you'll be stuck wherever that happens." Yep, that's probably true. I can also introduce you to a gent who had a prop strike with a metal prop, and kinda torqued it back into shape....sorta, and flew it part way home. The metal prop shed a tip due to the stresses involved in the strike and the "reshaping". Fortunately, he didn't wreck the plane in the ensuing landing, but.... So, yes, this is true. And, one of the MT props I flew regularly was subjected to this very issue, except the plane wound up on its back so neither the prop nor the plane were very useable. The good news was that, because the prop splintered instead of just bending, the engine teardown revealed no problems whatever. A metal prop bent that bad MAY have torqued internal engine parts. If you think props are expensive, try replacing a crankshaft.
"Those props get dings on them, and at least with a metal prop you can file out the dings." Yep, in fact, over a period of time, you can file one of those metal props right down to toothpick shape and size, at which point, you're buying a new set of blades. Furthermore, at any time in there, one of those dings you get on a metal prop MAY well propagate into a crack, which destroys the blade. The good news about the MT props is that the leading edge is covered with a stainless steel sheath. Tough? Very tough. Much tougher in fact than ANY aluminum blade leading edge. And the leading edge is where most of the damage occurs on props. If that stainless LE gets ugly enough, you can send the MT prop in and have a new LE installed.....and you've now got a virtually new prop. The aluminum prop....every time you run some water/sand/rocks/grass through that prop, you're going to file some of that precious metal off those blades.
Dings on the face of the prop (the part that points aft)? Use a little epoxy like Marine Tex or such to seal them up. Done. Simple. I know of at least one outfit in northern AK running composite props on Beech 1900s running on gravel airstrips. Think about that. Chief of Maintenance says the composite props are wonderful. Rock dings are a non issue. Those are PT-6s throwing rocks, folks.....
"The MT props have no inertia, so they're hard on starters." Holy shit, folks! Cessna starters have had issues for decades. A lightweight prop doesn't make those issues better or worse. If you have a POS starter, replace it with a good one....they're out there.
Yes, these props are expensive. They are light, they pull like a tug boat, and the customer service is outstanding. What's not to like?
MTV
Squash wrote:So far so good on my new MT prop.
Compared to my 88" 3 blade black Mac, this MT prop does not brake when the power comes off, which I prefer. I felt like my power off glide was compromised too much with the Mac.

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