Does anyone have any details on this system? Almost reminds of of monocoat on the RCs I used to build, oddly I enjoyed doing that lol




https://betteraircraftfabric.com/videos ... ering.html


Gracias

Back in the mid 80’s I used a product from Germany called solerfilm to cover light weight balsa airplanes, it didn’t have any glue on it so it was extra light but you had to brush on the heat adhesive where you needed it, later the made a fabric called Oricover for larger model aircraft…

Number of years ago a guy on the SWP forum said of the SS processe, if your wife was blind you could cover in the living room and she wouldn’t know it. He was a heavy cargo pilot and he took his pacer flight controls all over the world and covered them up to eco fill in tge layover motels of Asia and Europe.

Oratex is basicly the next step, and ya, almost exactly like Monocoat. In fact I always recommend a guy builds a CG Gental Lady glider and cover first to get the basic idea.

Oritex is not for everyone. It’s a vary what you see is what you get product. You arnt going to fill and sand perfections away. But fuck ya, you arnt going to fill and sand at all.

I’m litterly covering a 18 rudder in my cabin on my bed/living room right now.

Lotta good threads on SC.org but keep your bull shit filter on high cause.

Rocket

There is A LOT of information and data on Oratex 6000 out there. All you have to do is research the subject. A call to Lars at Better Aircraft Fabric in Anchorage is a great start as well. I previously exclusively used Randolph (Nitrate/Butyrate) products on all our Cubs (two J-3's and an 18) over the years, and although their product is excellent, (my PA-18A wings had 52-year-old Ceconite that still exceeded the pull test), I am recovering in Oratex 6000. Time is my #1 factor, additionally it is lighter and more weather resistant IMO. Legacy system "experts" may look down on Oratex as there has historically been a lot of negative transfer as previous legacy system installers attempted to apply those legacy procedures to Oratex. Read and heed the instructions solves this.

TR

Good information given in the above posts. I covered a Rans S7 in Oratex and liked it. I’ll use it again on my next build. Follow the instructions and all is well. Apply “legacy” fabric techniques and you’ll have issues, those with previous experience tend to be the ones that have a negative opinion of it, which makes sense, they’ve seen both sides. For me, I had no previous experience, I didn’t want to build a paint booth, I wanted the lightest product, and I wanted an easy to repair fabric. Oratex fit the bill.

I have been back and forth on this. Met Lars at Osh and he was very informative. The big thing for me is no spraying, sanding, building booth etc. Definitely going to recover my wings next winter and see how it goes. I’m experimental so can go with factory seconds fabric too. May not be as durable but at my age it’s going to be fine.

ASA rebuilt his Maule from the tubes up and posted about the whole project on this forum. He used ORATEX for the job.

https://backcountrypilot.org/forum/amorphous-maule-m7-m6-rebuild-project-24886?hilit=ASA

daedaluscan wrote:I have been back and forth on this. Met Lars at Osh and he was very informative. The big thing for me is no spraying, sanding, building booth etc. Definitely going to recover my wings next winter and see how it goes. I’m experimental so can go with factory seconds fabric too. May not be as durable but at my age it’s going to be fine.

Oratex has been approved by TC for use in Canada. I wouldn't be surprised if there is a price bump to have now that it is.

First timer
Just follow the directions

Thanks for all the feedback guys!

Might try to stop by their shop next time I’m in ANC, they close to down town?

Utah-Jay wrote:First timer
Just follow the directions

Oops, meant to quote NTK

Mostly sure Lars is based at Birchwood but give him a call
907.440.7033

Rocket

Flyhound wrote:ASA rebuilt his Maule from the tubes up and posted about the whole project on this forum. He used ORATEX for the job.

https://backcountrypilot.org/forum/amorphous-maule-m7-m6-rebuild-project-24886?hilit=ASA

Was going to post this, but yes I did mine in oratex. It’s been 2 years and 300 hours, plane has lived outside in Alaska during that time. I like it, would do it again. It’s different than other types of fabric and you will see people who hate it because they simply aren’t good at being detailed. If you just slap it on, it looks like trash. If you do it well, it’s amazing and can save 40lb on a cub or 20lb on a maule (fuselage only).

I did the fuselage in a shared hangar, zero fumes and such. I did the smaller pieces sitting at my desk or kitchen table while watching Seinfeld. I also had no problem finding paint to match, both rattle can and 2 part polyurethane.

Looks nice!

I have a friend that has his entire Super Cub done in Oratex. He's happy with it. Don't recall if he personally covered it or not. Recently saw him and his newly covered plane at big fly in at the Oratex display.

A process that eliminates the use of butyrate or nitrate has got to be a winner. Does the Oratex process still require some form of rib stitching or similar attachment method ?

Mapleflt wrote:A process that eliminates the use of butyrate or nitrate has got to be a winner. Does the Oratex process still require some form of rib stitching or similar attachment method ?

Depends on the aircraft. Until this latest evolution, Oratex was mechanically attached to the underlying structure with the same process as approved during that aircraft's certification. A "stitchless" system has recently been approved for some aircraft. A quick search should show the press release from Lanitz Aviation and Better Aircraft Fabric (Feb 2024). There are certified examples flying utilizing this "new" (Europe has been doing this for years) attachment method.

TR

So you’d be trusting the heat activated glue bond vs rivets or stitches?

I would suggest rib stitching

NineThreeKilo wrote:So you’d be trusting the heat activated glue bond vs rivets or stitches?

Don't shoot the messenger...I suggest researching the process and make a sound scientific decision on what you feel most comfortable with. Thats the beauty of capitalism, one can choose what method they desire. And yes, anyone can still use the mechanical fastening method approved for the aircraft. One must be certified (trained) in this "new" procedure (stitchless) before being authorized to employ it as far as I know. Personally, I plan to rib stitch Oratex 6000 on our A model Cub, however, this has more to do with what I desire versus any questioning of the "new" procedure and its technology.

TR

No shooting of messengers, just curious

Rib stitch?

Univair ribs with “aronca” pop rivets. Less than two hours to melt holes with a soldering iron and pull rivets on both sides of a wing.

Did one pacer wing in like 18 min, one guy melting holes, second guy stuffing rivets, and the third pulling with an air tool.

Don’t like how the oratex looks and prefer that shiny thick paint look? Top coat it with your favorite approved finish. You’ve still saved hundreds of hours and it takes paint as well as anything out there. I did a few tail feathers and top coated with SS with zero prep, blew off any cutties and sprayed.

Glue on no stitch rib caps? Seems like a lot of work when the name of the game is easier and faster. I’m thinking there must be some other aircraft out there that would benefit more than a cub wing: clipped wing racers or the like?


Rocket