I worded my question poorly. In my application I have foam against exterior fabric. Think basting tape will work for me?

Ok I decided to go all in and go without the headliner

Ready to prime - and good shot of the new windows cut in

TxAgfisher wrote:I went sans headliner...

@TxAgfisher where did you put the rear headphone jacks - don't see them in the pic you posted. Trying to figure out where to put mine if I don't put a side panel back there

corefile wrote:

TxAgfisher wrote:I went sans headliner...

@TxAgfisher where did you put the rear headphone jacks - don't see them in the pic you posted. Trying to figure out where to put mine if I don't put a side panel back there

In one of the stringers, hopefully you can see it in this picture.

That square hole in the gusset on the B pillar (in TxAgfisher's picture) is where a lot of people put them that I've seen.

Also forgot I was supposed to get a pic of kydex headliner until this thread came back up. This is a working 180H on floats and the kydex makes for good protection. Also it’s slick so stuff slides along it rather than grabbing - which makes life much easier sometimes with moose racks and fishing poles.

mtv wrote:

Bagarre wrote:Not for the weight. The foam and felt probably weighs just as much as a light wool headliner.
Not for the noise. That's what headsets are for. Plus the foam deadens just as well as a headliner.
Not for the warmth, Unless your headliner is vinyl, you're not sealing anything. Cold air from leaky gaps goes right through wool headliners.
Not for the utility. It adds no utility. It's simply a method of covering what's over your head.

I did it because I think the wool headliners look antiquated and they are a royal SOB to install right.
Felt over foam looks very nice. It makes a clean install. One benefit is, it gives me a little more headroom.

I might feel differently if I got my driver's license in a Studebaker but the wool headliners make the airplane look old.
That's ok if you like the old look. There is no better or worse. It's simply two options of equal value with different aesthetics.

Now you’ve gone too far......let’s not be putting down Studebakers, okay?

And, I’ve installed two wool headliners, and thought they were fairly easy. They shrink nice to remove wrinkles with hairdryer.

But, again, it’s whatever turns your crank, I reckon. Cept when it comes to Studebakers, that is

MTV

New rule: if some youngster is going to bad mouth aged vehicles, they should be handed the keys and told "OK, smart guy, you start it." FWIW, I grew up with a 49 Studebaker pickup and learned to drive in a 40 Buick. When we were old enough, Pop bought my step-bro and me a 48 Buick convertible.

Keeping this aviation oriented, my early airplane pard and I were at Kamiah, ID. I'd flown in to pick him up in our 182. He had been dropped off to wait for me, but he was hungry, so he wanted to drive into town to get something to eat. The available "crew car" provided (I think) by Idaho Aeronautics was a 48 Mercury sedan. My pard, always the left seater, hopped in, put the key in the ignition, and just sat there. "How do you start this thing?" It had the locking steering column, so I told him that he had to turn the key far enough to unlock the column. But of course, that wasn't enough. "The starter button is on the left. But you need to choke it." "Then you drive!" I'll leave the rest of the procedure unsaid, but I'll bet the older guys here know how to start a "high performance" Ford flat head V8!

Cary

Getting closer - got her all cleaned up - ready for prime and paint. Also good pictures of how the 3rd window modification came out.

Things you find when you remove your headliner.

(stringer above the pilots seat)
I really hate finding ghetto fixes like this, I posted a similar fix on my rudder spar - which I also replaced:


This is the other end of the same stringer - has this crack


Needless to say I have a new replacement (salvage) one on its way.

New overhead stringer installed, primed, new windows cut into fuselage and decided to add the BAS seatbelts up front. Getting ready for interior paint.

Now that it’s all uncovered, how about mounting some attachments for rear seat shoulder harness?

Kurt

Kurt

Yep agree 100% - that is in the plans - I'm WAY over budget for this project... I kind of went crazy once I started so I wanted to see if I can re-use my previous fixed shoulder harnesses I had upfront and make them work for the rear seats. If I can't reuse them I'll look at the different option and add once I've recovered a bit from this.

G44 wrote:Now that it’s all uncovered, how about mounting some attachments for rear seat shoulder harness?

Kurt

There’s actually stock nut plates for this in the bulkhead just behind where the rear seat would go. They’re visible in this picture of his actually.

corefile wrote:

TxAgfisher wrote:I went sans headliner...

@TxAgfisher where did you put the rear headphone jacks - don't see them in the pic you posted. Trying to figure out where to put mine if I don't put a side panel back there

Here’s what I did on a buddy’s 182, I figured the flimsy armrests were worthless, so I replaced them with some nice jack mounts. The beauty is they dont stick out very far so they don’t interfere wih the atlee folding seats when they are stowed:

Finally got the interior striped and painted, went with the Zolatone paint for interior - really happy with the decision to go without the headliner. Got all the new bulkheads installed for adding the 3rd window.

Foam with felt will be installed as well - but will probably do that as a work in progress a bit at a time.

For those that have gone the foam route and have the rear seat shoulder harness attachment strip of aluminum that spans between the two bulkheads on the ceiling - how did you handle that?

Looks great. Sorry I don't have any answers for you but wanted to give you a [emoji1360]

corefile wrote:For those that have gone the foam route and have the rear seat shoulder harness attachment strip of aluminum that spans between the two bulkheads on the ceiling - how did you handle that?

I just made small rectangular notches in the foam that was the same width as the aluminum strips. And actually this was done when I made the paper templates, then I just traced it to the foam. It worked out pretty good.