I am looking to get some more ventilation into my 182E. Is Great Lakes Plastic the only option when it comes a vented door window? The stock vents just don’t move enough air for my family to be comfortable and I’m trying to avoid a cooler AC.

Thx.

https://www.knots2u.net/cessna-aerovent ... sting-oat/


Just can't beat these vents, they are pricey, but worth every penny when it's hot out.

open the window. I fly around all the time with both windows open in flight.

Barrakudaman wrote:open the window. I fly around all the time with both windows open in flight.

Only one window opens with the 182E, unfortunately. Makes for some funny pressure differentials.

There is an STC to add an opening window to the right hand door but it’s a huge pita.

At what speeds are you still able to open the windows?

Can’t speak for the E model but my P model doesn’t have a speed restriction on window opening. I know because I still haven’t gotten the pilot’s side window spring fixed and that occasionally causes the window to pop open.
Cause here, for the pedantic, is the lack of spring causes the pilot to not latch the window after opening it on startup. It closes by gravity but isn’t latched.
It just gets much louder when it pops open due to pressure.

On my 172 I installed the precise airflow vents from sporty's and the enhanced airflow system from aircraft spruce in the baggage compartment and I painted the rear window white. It made a HUGE difference. The airflow increase made a big difference but painting the back window was the bib one. I did not have a rear view mirror and I spend most of my time looking forward and my passengers always look out the side windows. I found the back windows only purpose was to let lots of unwanted heat into the cabin.

I leave mine open at all speeds without issue. I am not sure if the book says you should not. Its really nice when your down low on a hot day or practicing in the pattern. If your going cross country you shut them anyway since you will probably be up high in the cool air. 155mph cruise speed on mine if you want an exact number how fast I've gone with window open. I'm sure faster in descent.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... avents.php

Approved for Cessna Skycatcher. Might be able to get a field approval.

Check your window hinges if you are gonna fly around with the window open. I had mine open 1 day taking pics and the front hinge let loose. I cought the window as I didn't want to lose it, but couldn't get it closed and had to land with 1 hand, so a little awkward.
Gary

jcadwell wrote:https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/vistavents.php

Approved for Cessna Skycatcher. Might be able to get a field approval.

These work great, much better than the overhead cessna vents. Pax love them. I wouldn't bother with field approval, just cut the holes and go.

I second the Precise Flow vents from Sporty’s. I have installed them in every Cessna I have owned. Great airflow and you can direct the flow to where ever you like, pax really like this on a hot day. They can also be closed up tight with no leaking on a cold day. Quality product.

Kurt

https://www.sportys.com/precise-flow-air-vent-kit.html

jcadwell wrote:https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/vistavents.php

Approved for Cessna Skycatcher. Might be able to get a field approval.

Thx. I plan to use these but 3 out of 4 test holes we cut in scrap Plexi using a hole saw turning slowly resulted in disaster. Any tips on cutting the holes?

Thx

DJ Balla wrote:

jcadwell wrote:https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/vistavents.php

Approved for Cessna Skycatcher. Might be able to get a field approval.

Thx. I plan to use these but 3 out of 4 test holes we cut in scrap Plexi using a hole saw turning slowly resulted in disaster. Any tips on cutting the holes?

Thx

Invest in an annular cutter (rotabroach). You can buy them individually from McMaster Carr.

I’ve had good luck with them in lexan and plexiglass using high drill speed. Also helps to put good masking tape on both sides of the area you’re cutting, ymmv.

I usually tape both sides with masking tape, and clamp some plywood over the hole location on both sides. Light pressure on the hole saw. I've heard of people running the hole saw backwards to wear a hole rather than cut it, but I've never bothered.

You should also consider reducing the rake angle of the drill bit portion of the hole saw with a bench grinder. Flattening that angle makes the bit grab the material less, which reduces the likelihood of spider web cracks.

Drill the pilot hole first, and cut the hole half depth from each side if you can, instead of drilling all the way through from one side.

Thx! Are you folks typically doing the cutting on the bench or on an installed window?

If you have used a cement hole saw, it has carbide on the cutting edge instead of teeth, so the chance of chipping would be much lower, might work, never tried it but just a thought?

could try cutting in reverse with standard hole saw