Yip, I'll be gettin me one very nice and I like your idea on the quick release mod

asa wrote:Finished up the tailwheel project. I think it's a major improvement.

Before:


After:



Also got my cargo net in from Safari Straps, very satisfied. Fits behind front seat or behind back seat. Plan to cut off the adjustment straps on the top mounting points to use small shackles or carabiners instead.

Back:


Front:

Asa,

Just saw this thread, so sorry I’m late. Next time you have your tailwheel apart, order a 3214T steering arm for it from Airframes. Some call them the “Bent steering arm”. The ears on that are MUCH stronger, and the geometry of the arms provides improved sterling. And you wont bend those steering arms. I won’t run a 3200 tailwheel without that arm now. You’ll also need a new dust seal to accommodate the much larger steering arms.

MTV

mtv wrote:Asa,

Just saw this thread, so sorry I’m late. Next time you have your tailwheel apart, order a 3214T steering arm for it from Airframes. Some call them the “Bent steering arm”. The ears on that are MUCH stronger, and the geometry of the arms provides improved sterling. And you wont bend those steering arms. I won’t run a 3200 tailwheel without that arm now. You’ll also need a new dust seal to accommodate the much larger steering arms.

MTV

Thanks for the tip. Didn't realize they were beefier but pics definitely reflect that. This was a budget rebuild, but maybe next time. I also now know the state of all parts within the tailwheel which is handy for next time.

Edit: Nevermind, looked it up... $275.... ouch.


Finished installation:

asa wrote:

mtv wrote:Asa,

Just saw this thread, so sorry I’m late. Next time you have your tailwheel apart, order a 3214T steering arm for it from Airframes. Some call them the “Bent steering arm”. The ears on that are MUCH stronger, and the geometry of the arms provides improved sterling. And you wont bend those steering arms. I won’t run a 3200 tailwheel without that arm now. You’ll also need a new dust seal to accommodate the much larger steering arms.

MTV

Thanks for the tip. Didn't realize they were beefier but pics definitely reflect that. This was a budget rebuild, but maybe next time. I also now know the state of all parts within the tailwheel which is handy for next time.

Edit: Nevermind, looked it up... $275.... ouch.


Finished installation:

Yes, they aren't cheap.....but, in my experience in much off airport or rough airport stuff, those crappy little steering ears on the standard steering arm get bent up, because the pull from the steering is upward....and once they're bent, they don't straighten easy and they don't steer as well.

The 3214T steering arm, on the other hand has REALLY stout steering tabs, which hold up really well in the rough, AND as a bonus, they steer better because the geometry is better and the steering arm is a little wider.

MTV

asa wrote:

G44 wrote:Wow, those look like nice cargo nets!

Kurt

$80 and tons of different sizes. Hard to beat.

Got a link?


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Tom wrote:

asa wrote:

G44 wrote:Wow, those look like nice cargo nets!

Kurt

$80 and tons of different sizes. Hard to beat.

Got a link?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://www.safaristraps.com/cargo-nets ... cargo-net/

I used a 19" x 37" one here. Had one for my C180 as well. I like the 1" polyester. The corner attachment straps take up some room but can easily be cut off. I've made all my nets attach directly at the top (cut straps), then use the attachment straps on the bottom to tighten it.

Got some new shoes today. 31's with extra tread and the wide fork kit with glider tire. Very happy with the results. Just seeing them in person made me immediately forget how many thousands of dollars they cost.

Lookin goooooood.


To use the Beaver tube, you have to slot the wheel spacer to the center. I used a mill instead of the usual dremel and it came out perfect.


The back end:


Prop clearance went from 27" to 33". Horizontal stab clearance (leading ege) went from 36" to 39".

Just dont put anything under the wing in the hangar, if by chance one of those tires goes flat your wing tip will come waaaay down, almost touch the floor. You wouldn’t want your wing to come down on top of something that could damage it.

Looks like another Scout in your hangar there.


Kurt

G44 wrote:Just dont put anything under the wing in the hangar, if by chance one of those tires goes flat your wing tip will come waaaay down, almost touch the floor. You wouldn’t want your wing to come down on top of something that could damage it.

Looks like another Scout in your hangar there.


Kurt

I realized that when I jacked the first side up to do the first 31"... other wing was awfully low. Right about the time I got it on, fuel started going overboard so I quickly moved the jack over to the other side and leveled it.

That's a 2017 Denali Scout next door ($$$$$$$). He's got me beat in every way except today I pulled ahead in the landing gear department.

That’s a great looking airplane!!

Love those tires. Can’t get my Scout in my hangar with anything that tall. Let me know what your cruise speed ends up at. I bet it isn’t too much slower than the 26”.

Edit: Nevermind, looked it up... $275.... ouch.

And yet look at where you are at now with landing rubber. You must be getting numb to expenses of less than 1 AU.

So that tailwheel and tire isn't the ABW one? Can you give some more detail on the "wide fork kit glider tire", parts required, source, etc. I'm running the stock size Desser in 6-ply now, but more flotation would be nice.

And my caution on fat tires in hangars going flat, don't just look below, but also above, as the wing on the other side will go up, a lot.

Karmutzen wrote:

Edit: Nevermind, looked it up... $275.... ouch.

And yet look at where you are at now with landing rubber. You must be getting numb to expenses of less than 1 AU.

So that tailwheel and tire isn't the ABW one? Can you give some more detail on the "wide fork kit glider tire", parts required, source, etc. I'm running the stock size Desser in 6-ply now, but more flotation would be nice.

And my caution on fat tires in hangars going flat, don't just look below, but also above, as the wing on the other side will go up, a lot.

It's a bbw fork and spacer but you use a 4.00x4 glider tire and a 5.00 beaver tube. ABI can source it all for you.

Yeah just call airframes and it’s pretty standard. It’s the below kit less the tire, add aero classic 4.00x4 tire and a Goodyear 5.00x4 “beaver” tube. Make sure to ask for the beaver tube. When you see how much the tire has to expand to fit the rim, you will not want a 4.00x4 tube. I’m satisfied.

https://www.airframesalaska.com/Scott-3 ... fk3200.htm

I've been thinking about trying to strip some weight out of this thing, make up a bit of the weight of the bushwheels. Pulled out the front carpet piece (probably 60% of total) and weighed it to get an idea. It was 4lb 6oz. That leads me to believe that it and the rear carpet combined would save me 7 - 7.5lbs. Every other tandem tailwheel I fly has wood floors so not losing much except shit will roll to the back when on the ground. I like carpet in cessna's to keep dirt and such from going into the belly but with the metal belley on this, that is irrelevant. Would likely sew up a boot for the front stick.

Not many people strip these things out but would love to see pics of interior mods if anyone has them. Might pull out the side panesl and see what they weigh as well. My goal is to remove nothing permanately. Have it where I could bolt it all back in if I later decided I wanted it nice. Open to suggestions.


4lb 6oz:

Carbon fiber floor boards would save you a few lbs as well. And a few lbs out the wallet. Win win!

Talked to ACA a few days ago. Carbon saves 8lbs for $1200. I decided to save 7lbs for $20. Today I pulled all the carpet and spent $20 on supplies to put thicker varnish on the floorboards. Going well so far, 2 coats on today. Will do a third tomorrow morning then start bolting stuff on. Was going to do metal heel plates but instead of trying to figure out what needs protecting, I'm going to let it naturally wear out a bit to inform me where to put them. Planned to pull all the wood out to varnish but decided it wasn't worth it and did it in place.

Also I took off the gear leg steps the previous owner had welded up. Don't do anything for me since my fuel caps can't be reached from there, and I can stand on the top of the gear leg or my 31's anyway, didn't see the point. That saved 2lbs and I sold them for $120.

So today my net work is +$100 and -9lbs. Not bad!

Front carpet...4lb 8oz
Rear carpet...2lb 8oz
Gearleg steps... 2lb 1oz

Your floor is in great shape. It will look really good with the varnish. I think you can use the carpet as a template for the heel plates.

Goodyear wrote:Your floor is in great shape. It will look really good with the varnish. I think you can use the carpet as a template for the heel plates.

What interior are you going with, in terms of side panels?