Backcountry Pilot • Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

Mapleflt wrote:I was grappling with two aspects of heating, in the hanger and on the road. The hanger component has been resolved with a lightweight, propane fueled heater. I have determined that with proper time management I can complete the required pre-heating whilst performing the other per-flight duties, thankfully time is my own and I'm not rushed to depart at all.

So now for the "on the road" requirements, my "inner" McGyer was sparked by an earlier poster on the subject and a recent visit with a very creative local aviation AME. I now have a very lightweight, compact, travelling preheater or better called a "heat maintainer" that utilizes a single burner, dual fuel, camp stove, some simple duct component and a well fitted engine cover. As an added bonus I can warm up a bowl of soup of hot chocolate while I'm wait for SAR should the need arise

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This has been a very informative and formative topic for me, thank you BCP's.


One of the little known facts about these small gas stoves is that they all throw off a few sparks. And, of course, sparks will rise with the heat. So, be careful where you place the hose that goes into the cowl.

The Northern Companion has a mesh inside the unit to (hopefully) catch those sparks and prevent them from getting into the engine compartment. I have no idea where they came up with that mesh, but I would think that some fairly fine metal mesh would serve this purpose.

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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

Mapleflt wrote:... I now have a very lightweight, compact, travelling preheater or better called a "heat maintainer" that utilizes a single burner, dual fuel, camp stove, some simple duct component and a well fitted engine cover.


Mapleflt,
If you want to burn av-gas, you'll have to get a different stove. That stove will burn it for a little while (couple hours maybe), then it will reduce output and clog. The damage is cumulative, just like plaque in your arteries.

The reason is that type of stove atomizes the cold fuel from the tank by running it through the pre-heating tube imbedded above the burner before it reaches the ignition nozzle. The tetraethyl lead crystalizes in the tube and eventually blocks it or the nozzle or both. Once blocked it's a tedious labor to disassemble the stove and clean the contaminated parts of the crystalized lead. (Ask me how I know...)

A stove like the MSR Dragonfly (NOT the MSR Whisperlite International which uses the same system as your stove) sprays cold fuel on a hot metal plate to atomize it, so lead will not build up inside the plumbing. It will run on av-gas indefinitely...also white gas, kerosene, jet fuel, diesel oil, car gas, as well as most of the chemicals in the paint section of your hardware store.

The primary reason this type of stove isn't more popular is because they are LOUD. Loud enough that you can't have a conversation while boiling water next to one, though with the heat-shield and ducting for a pre-heater the noise isn't bad.

Leaded gasoline is not listed as a fuel choice, mostly because it's not commonly available and because it's really not a fuel you want to cook food with. But it works...I've run gallons of it through my Dragonfly while pre-heating.
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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

Hammer, MTV thanks for the intel, I'll start working on a protective screen and source a better burner option. Cheers
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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

Hammer wrote:
Mapleflt wrote:... I now have a very lightweight, compact, travelling preheater or better called a "heat maintainer" that utilizes a single burner, dual fuel, camp stove, some simple duct component and a well fitted engine cover.


Mapleflt,
If you want to burn av-gas, you'll have to get a different stove. That stove will burn it for a little while (couple hours maybe), then it will reduce output and clog. The damage is cumulative, just like plaque in your arteries.

The reason is that type of stove atomizes the cold fuel from the tank by running it through the pre-heating tube imbedded above the burner before it reaches the ignition nozzle. The tetraethyl lead crystalizes in the tube and eventually blocks it or the nozzle or both. Once blocked it's a tedious labor to disassemble the stove and clean the contaminated parts of the crystalized lead. (Ask me how I know...)

A stove like the MSR Dragonfly (NOT the MSR Whisperlite International which uses the same system as your stove) sprays cold fuel on a hot metal plate to atomize it, so lead will not build up inside the plumbing. It will run on av-gas indefinitely...also white gas, kerosene, jet fuel, diesel oil, car gas, as well as most of the chemicals in the paint section of your hardware store.

The primary reason this type of stove isn't more popular is because they are LOUD. Loud enough that you can't have a conversation while boiling water next to one, though with the heat-shield and ducting for a pre-heater the noise isn't bad.

Leaded gasoline is not listed as a fuel choice, mostly because it's not commonly available and because it's really not a fuel you want to cook food with. But it works...I've run gallons of it through my Dragonfly while pre-heating.


Yes get the Dragonfly if your going this route. Years ago I built a ammo can knock off of a norther companion and used the Dragonfly. Used it for a few years and finally got smart and put a Reiff turbo on. I did put the Dragonfly to the test though, everything from gas, white gas, jet-a, av gas, and several other flammable liquids I couldn’t read when I lived in Norway.
I will say this from living and learning, that ammo can would heat down to -30, but it took ALL damn day. And like everyone has said, never walk away from a open flame. That makes for a cold day.
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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

I’ll be picking up a Dragonfly ASAP
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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

Hammer wrote:The primary reason this type of stove isn't more popular is because they are LOUD. Loud enough that you can't have a conversation while boiling water next to one, though with the heat-shield and ducting for a pre-heater the noise isn't bad.

I get why you say this, because it is definitely a gripe that people seem to have. But when it is cold, the sound of an XGK (or Dragonfly) is like hearing the cavalry coming over the hill. I get a toasty warm feeling just thinking about it as I sit here in my living room. An XGK has turned my immediate prospects from dire to luxurious more times than I can begin to recount.

-DP
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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

glacier wrote:take a look at the XGK too. Firefly has a nice valve on the burner that helps with control a bit, XGK might be more of a brute, slower to respond to adjustments anyway. Both do the vaporization on the plate deal, and are loud.


Does the XGK work with av-gas? I've never used one, but I see that it has a vaporization tube as well as a hot plate. Unless you can bypass the tube while burning av-gas, I think it'd clog up.
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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

Years ago I built a portable engine heater similar to what has been depicted but rather than an MSR stove I used an Optimus. Aside from the one time I tried fingernail polish removed it has had a steady diet of mogas or 100LL. I've cleaned it maybe twice and hadn't used it in years till a month or so ago. Put some gas in the bottle and it worked just fine. Part of the reason I chose it is the metal fuel pump vs the plastic pump MSR used. The only thing I dislike is the horrible valve they used but I see that they have replaced it with a normal one.

Primus is another brand that looks very similar to my Optimus. Looks like they have a titanium version just for you Hammer :D
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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

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Re: Forced Air Engine Pre-heaters

jcadwell wrote:https://division-6.com/products/dtmf4-dtmf-relay-board/

A handheld transciever and the above product would allow DTMF control.

I have a cell switch, and had never considered Ham... I might not have to spend $3 per month...


Looks like it might work but I don't think it will be able to send a response indicating status, on or off which is most helpful.
I have a SMS switch which cost around $200 that works of cell service and is only $25/yr.
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