I'm thinking on getting the AeroLEDs. I like the idea of having wig-wag, always liked that. But on the Stinson, both the landing and taxi light are next to each other on the left wing. I'm wondering if I should get both as wing-wag or not. Looks like I need to change my switch from 2 position to 3 and add a wire too.

I have the Preciseflight Pulselight module to pulse my landing and taxi lights on my P172D. The instructions were pretty clear that they should not be pulsed as wigwags when they're mounted together, like yours and mine, because then from a distance, they'll just look like they're on all the time. I took their word for it, and so my IA wired them to pulse together; that works really well.

I would think that if the lights themselves have the circuitry to do the pulsing, it would be hard to get them to pulse together, but easier to have just one of them pulse and the other be turned off. I'd go for having the taxi light pulse, because that's the one with a broader beam.

Cary

Kind of what I figured. The only way to make the pulse work is to have a module so they pulse together or separate the wiring so that I can control each light individually. Stock Stinson is one switch, on or off, controls both the taxi and landing light.

The easiest thing is to just get the non pulse LED kind and stick them in and forget about any kind of pulse. But, I do have the wing open and am rebuilding it, so if I wanted to split wiring or add a module or something, this is the time to do it.

Did you add a seperate switch Cary? Or does your 172 have seperate landing/taxi switches already? My 180 has the old school pull knob. Pull out one notch for taxi, two notches for taxi and landing. I'm sure I'd have to put in new switches if i went the wigwag route.

A1Skinner wrote:Did you add a seperate switch Cary? Or does your 172 have seperate landing/taxi switches already? My 180 has the old school pull knob. Pull out one notch for taxi, two notches for taxi and landing. I'm sure I'd have to put in new switches if i went the wigwag route.

I have the same switch you do. My IA added a lit rocker switch to turn on the Pulselight module. Basic operation is to turn on the landing/taxi pull switch all the way to turn on both lights to warm them up (I have HIDs, which take a few seconds to come to full brightness), turn on the Pulselight switch, then push in the landing/taxi switch, and both lights then pulse at full brightness.

The reason for the lit switch was so that I wouldn't accidentally leave it on if I didn't intend for the lights to be flashing--they're pretty obnoxious to others while taxiing, because the HIDs are so bright. The switch that came with the Pulselight module is just a simple toggle.

I usually leave the Pulselight switch on until I'm a few miles from the airport after taking off. At night, of course I wait to shut off the main taxi/landing switch until I'm in the air. As I'm approaching my destination airport, I'll go through the turn on procedure I described above about 7-8 miles out, leaving them pulsing until after I land. Upon coming in to land at night, I typically wait to pull on the landing/taxi switch until I turn base, which turns on the landing/taxi lights.

Here's one anomaly, though. If I turn off the landing light by pushing the landing/taxi switch in half way, but I haven't yet turned off the Pulselight switch, the landing light starts pulsing. My IA thought that he could wire it so that wouldn't happen, but after about 7 hours (which he did not charge me for), he gave up. The easy solution is to turn off the Pulselight switch upon leaving the runway, then push in the landing/taxi switch halfway to shut off the landing light.

Cary

Ok. Thanks for the explanation Cary.

Hi,

I know this is an old post, but I just want to share a new option for those of you that are willing to try something different.

A Par36 light that will fit as a direct replacement and it does produce over 2100 lumens.

for more information please visit:

www.goodiesforpilots.com

[url]www.goodiesforpilots.com/url]

Thanks

Yamil Quinones

Pilots Goodies wrote:Hi,

I know this is an old post, but I just want to share a new option for those of you that are willing to try something different.

A Par36 light that will fit as a direct replacement and it does produce over 2100 lumens.

for more information please visit:

http://www.goodiesforpilots.com

[url]www.goodiesforpilots.com/url]

Thanks

Yamil Quinones

Thanks for sharing - but as a vendor posting your products, should really look into officially advertising on the site....

To clarify:

Pilot Goodies is talking about a drop in replacement that has the wig-wag controller built in. The first time you turn on the lights you get the wig-wags. If you then turn it off and turn back on again, you have the solid light. So there is NO need for a separate controller.

I am going to install on my bird and I will give a report on if it works as advertised.

If so, seems like a no brainer for the price. L

88H wrote:To clarify:

Pilot Goodies is talking about a drop in replacement that has the wig-wag controller built in. The first time you turn on the lights you get the wig-wags. If you then turn it off and turn back on again, you have the solid light. So there is NO need for a separate controller.

I am going to install on my bird and I will give a report on if it works as advertised.

If so, seems like a no brainer for the price. L

Look into the current they draw (which directly relates to brightness). I think it's 0.9A versus a Whelen 1.2A, Rigid's 1.6A (23W) or 2.7A (40W). The wig-wag is nice, though, as well as the price.

asa wrote:

88H wrote:To clarify:

Pilot Goodies is talking about a drop in replacement that has the wig-wag controller built in. The first time you turn on the lights you get the wig-wags. If you then turn it off and turn back on again, you have the solid light. So there is NO need for a separate controller.

I am going to install on my bird and I will give a report on if it works as advertised.

If so, seems like a no brainer for the price. L

Look into the current they draw (which directly relates to brightness). I think it's 0.9A versus a Whelen 1.2A, Rigid's 1.6A (23W) or 2.7A (40W). The wig-wag is nice, though, as well as the price.

I don't see on their website where it says they wigwag. If they do, that's a good feature--I have my landing/taxi lights wigwag using a Precise Flight Pulselite controller. Actually, mine don't wigwag--they pulse together, because wigwagging when they're as close together as when paired in the leading edge of a Cessna wing would make them appear to be on all the time, negating the benefit of the wigwagging. If I had them on the tips or 2 pairs, one in each wing, then wigwagging would work well.

It's curious that they make a point of saying that they are "non-certified versions" and then publish the Avweb article saying it makes no difference.

Cary

asa wrote:

88H wrote:To clarify:

Pilot Goodies is talking about a drop in replacement that has the wig-wag controller built in. The first time you turn on the lights you get the wig-wags. If you then turn it off and turn back on again, you have the solid light. So there is NO need for a separate controller.

I am going to install on my bird and I will give a report on if it works as advertised.

If so, seems like a no brainer for the price. L

Look into the current they draw (which directly relates to brightness). I think it's 0.9A versus a Whelen 1.2A, Rigid's 1.6A (23W) or 2.7A (40W). The wig-wag is nice, though, as well as the price.

Current draw isn't as direct a measurement in LEDs as it is in incandescent bulbs. Lumens is a better comparison as that is how bright the light is. A more efficient LED will have a higher Lumen at the same current draw as a less efficient LED.

I wish the wig wag was the other way around where you have to cycle the switch twice to turn on wig wag.
That way normal functionality remains the same (turn on switch and you get normal lights)

Bagarre wrote:

asa wrote:

88H wrote:To clarify:

Pilot Goodies is talking about a drop in replacement that has the wig-wag controller built in. The first time you turn on the lights you get the wig-wags. If you then turn it off and turn back on again, you have the solid light. So there is NO need for a separate controller.

I am going to install on my bird and I will give a report on if it works as advertised.

If so, seems like a no brainer for the price. L

Look into the current they draw (which directly relates to brightness). I think it's 0.9A versus a Whelen 1.2A, Rigid's 1.6A (23W) or 2.7A (40W). The wig-wag is nice, though, as well as the price.

Current draw isn't as direct a measurement in LEDs as it is in incandescent bulbs. Lumens is a better comparison as that is how bright the light is. A more efficient LED will have a higher Lumen at the same current draw as a less efficient LED.

I wish the wig wag was the other way around where you have to cycle the switch twice to turn on wig wag.
That way normal functionality remains the same (turn on switch and you get normal lights)

I agree, but the idea of being almost twice as efficient as all other competitors (165 lumens/watt vs 85-90 lumens/watt) seems a little optimistic, especially in a $50 light using the same brand LED's (Osram) as the competitors. Hopefully 88H can get some real world use data and settle the speculation. I'd love to have a $50 solution that's as bright as the $200-300 solution, especially since I still have 1 incandescent in my wing, so I'm rooting for these things.

1. I think they are closer to $70 or $80 each. Will let you know when they come in.

2. I am not sure which feature comes on first. Only used that as an example. For me it would probably be better to have wig-wag first because I switch on lights everytime I crank up. Will post that when I get them installed.

3. I have no idea about lumens and amps. Hadn't even thought about asking. Probably because I am currently running the old style incandescent and I guarantee these will be brighter with lower power drain than what I am running now. Will post that too if I can get it off the paperwork.

4. I have a pretty cranky mechanic so I am sure he will let me know if they are not certificated. Was going to pass along paperwork to him as soon as I get it. Will let you know about that too.

I will keep you posted. L

88H wrote:1. I think they are closer to $70 or $80 each. Will let you know when they come in.

2. I am not sure which feature comes on first. Only used that as an example. For me it would probably be better to have wig-wag first because I switch on lights everytime I crank up. Will post that when I get them installed.

3. I have no idea about lumens and amps. Hadn't even thought about asking. Probably because I am currently running the old style incandescent and I guarantee these will be brighter with lower power drain than what I am running now. Will post that too if I can get it off the paperwork.

4. I have a pretty cranky mechanic so I am sure he will let me know if they are not certificated. Was going to pass along paperwork to him as soon as I get it. Will let you know about that too.

I will keep you posted. L

Ask your mechanic to show you the PMA and TSO for your existing PAR36 bulbs - or your nav lights for that matter.
http://www.avweb.com/blogs/insider/AVWe ... 196-1.html

Website says $41 =+ $7 S&H each.
I don't see where it claims built-in wig-wag capabilities.

I'm curious what people think would be better for recognition lights- spot or flood?

If strictly for recognition and not for landing/taxi, I'd say flood, because the beam would be wider and thus more visible off center. Since both of mine (landing=spot, taxi=flood) pulse together, I guess I have the best of both worlds.

Cary

I think you've got the best solution- a spot & a flood, pulsing together.
I installed one LED on a flasher a year or two ago,
but I went with the tighter spread beam.
I figured that would result in a brighter easier to see light,
even though it wouldn't be seen from as far off center on either side.

Perhaps Pilots Goodies could respond re whether his LED's have a built-in flashing feature or not.

Cary wrote:Actually, mine don't wigwag--they pulse together, because wigwagging when they're as close together as when paired in the leading edge of a Cessna wing would make them appear to be on all the time, negating the benefit of the wigwagging. If I had them on the tips or 2 pairs, one in each wing, then wigwagging would work well.
Cary

I have a wig-wag and my lights are both on the same wing right beside each other and they do look like they're wig-wagging to me. Hopefully I can get some videos from the air once I start flying it next month. I have 2 spot beams, one pointed slightly lower than the other, one for taxi, both for landing.

Bagarre wrote:
Ask your mechanic to show you the PMA and TSO for your existing PAR36 bulbs - or your nav lights for that matter.
http://www.avweb.com/blogs/insider/AVWe ... 196-1.html

He'll show you the Cessna (or other manufacturer) parts manual. It will have a part number, for example, Cessna 0523118-1. Look that up at a Cessna parts dealer and it will say 'superceded by 4509'

That's where I believe it comes from.... The bulb doesn't need a PMA because it was part of the airplane when it was certified.

That said, I still agree with everyone that it's silly that a replacement PAR36 bulb can't just drop in.

Chris