X2!!!!!

Haven’t posted progress in a while because I keep thinking we are almost done. We are clearly in the 90% of the time spent finishing the last 10% of the job.
We put the wheels on so we could put the plane in a hangar while completing the interior.
The windscreen was leaking so we had it resealed. The plan is still to replace the windscreen. And redo the dash at the same time.
Once the windscreen didn’t leak, we could see all the water coming in through the firewall. It turns out sealing things like throttle cable penetrations is not considered an airworthiness issue. High temp RTV works wonders.
Simple things like replacing the gas cap gaskets, McFarlane, thanks to this site, turn out not that simple. 3 of the 4 were easy. But the 4th had a manufacturing defect. McFarlane sent a new one right away but that adds another week to that task.
I finally found a solution to mounting the co-pilot instrument pane cover. On the 70s Cessnas, the sheet metal panel is covered with a plastic overlay that was Velcro’d on. Over the years ours has been “repaired” with flat Velcro. It doesn’t work because it is too thin. The key is that Cessna used plastic plugs with Velcro on them. They stand the plastic overlay off about 1/4”. Someone recommended golf tees, which didn’t work for me. But the auto parts store sells Ford plugs that can be modified to a smooth round top. Velcro can then be glued on, and with a little trimming, they make a perfect standoff.
The tail light wire was chaffed where it went through the aft bulkhead. Quickly repaired once tracked down. But I managed to break a wingtip Nav light in the troubleshooting process.

The interior refurb is going better than feared. Most of the interior plastic is pretty old, yellowed and brittle. It is a mix of original and aftermarket old parts. But the MEK dissolved abs plastic does a great job of rebuilding cracks and even missing chunks. The photo shows left and right rear window trim before and after repair and SEM Super White paint.

The kickpanels are a whole nother challenge. And we still need a plan for flooring, carpet or vinyl?

Hit a snag with the door stop. Co-pilot side at the door post was cracked at the rivets. Someone had oversized the holes and used Cherry max rivets. Failed when a wind gust caught it. Shop is making a doubler.
Meanwhile we are making progress on the interior re-install.

A close look shows where the headliner has shrunk and cracked exposing the edge under the Tiara. I am thinking of adding a 3” strip of urethane foam, match painted, under the Tiara. Other ideas or ideas where I can get such a strip of foam in the Seattle area? Upholstery shop?

Annnnd, spare parts.
Anyone know what this is? All the stickers have come off.

While planning to reinstall the Eyebrow I ran across a thread on BCP discussing Flying wires and asking for photos. So I took some of the upper and lower attach points.
Lower attachment at engine mount bolt

Upper attachment at wing root

Just to wrap up this thread, the finished project.


The interior is still a bit rough. Who knows what fasteners are correct for the AL plate that covers the forward control tunnel? The space ahead of the pedestal. The 6 open holes line up perfectly while the 4 rivnuts do not. #10 fold over tinnerman nuts?

And of course I have an HSI heading flag. Vacuum measures good and bus voltage is good. Other HSI functions check good.

Bottom line, it is amazing what an additional 30-40 horsepower does to performance.
The plan is to go back on floats in May.

PNW Flyer wrote:Just to wrap up this thread, the finished project.


The interior is still a bit rough. Who knows what fasteners are correct for the AL plate that covers the forward control tunnel? The space ahead of the pedestal. The 6 open holes line up perfectly while the 4 rivnuts do not. #10 fold over tinnerman nuts?

And of course I have an HSI heading flag. Vacuum measures good and bus voltage is good. Other HSI functions check good.

Bottom line, it is amazing what an additional 30-40 horsepower does to performance.
The plan is to go back on floats in May.

That plate might not be original to those holes, lots can happen to an airframe over the years.

If you put fold over tinnermans on the floor of a float plane in our environment they’ll eat their way thru the structure in short order, that’s my experience anyways.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Beautiful airplane! But.... DONT tie it down with chains! Use rope!

Kurt

Message heard. I need to figure that out with the airport. Chains are supplied. I can just add some rope sections.

PNW Flyer wrote:Message heard. I need to figure that out with the airport. Chains are supplied. I can just add some rope sections.

Yep, just tie the rope to where the chain is anchored or the bottom link of the chain. Be creative. I wish chains would go away. After seeing a fatal accident due to chain damage it is something that has stuck with me since.

Kurt

This was a great thread and I am heading down the same path, so I thought I would resurrect it for an update.

I've got a 182P with the Texas Skyways O-520 and the Sportsman STOL. The SPW kit is on the way. I'm considering float options, but at the moment I'm going straight float, so the EDO 2870s or the 2960s. Last I saw in this thread, you ended up going with the 2960s.

Now that it has been a few years, I would love to know your thoughts on all of it? Do you like the 2960s? How's the plane? Any more tips now that you've had it a while?

I like the 2960s. Don’t try to pull them off the water and they get off in about 1800’ at full gross.
Get the Troll Tune GW STC.
It won’t be cheaper to build than to buy one already done but you learn a lot.
Make sure all the under floor sections have weep holes. At our first annual we found we were “carrying water”.
If you put in an engine monitor, be sure the probe wires are routed under, not on top of the starboard side engine mount. The mechanics rest their forearms on that point when changing the oil filter and kept disconnecting the probe wires.
Lots of other lessons.
But it flies great. Enjoy.